24 August: from Home - Jokkmokk
I wake up 6.00, the taxi fetch me 7:45, I am at Sturup 8.15. A
is already there. As usual, we must enter the backpack in a plastic
bag. My walking stick is as special baggage. "Some liquids?" one
wonders at the security check. "No", I reply. "What is that?" ask
the guard. In my coat pocket, I have a bottle of water, in my small
backpack do they find soap, toothpaste, shampoo, a tube of cheese. I
feel like a terror suspect. What was I thinking? I'm not used to fly
these days, lives on in the past. Rushes out, drinking in the meantime
the water, throw away the bottle, and check in the rest. 9:40 raises a
half-filled plane to Arlanda, and lands there 10.45. We have a few
hours before the plane lifts to Luleå 12.40. We fly with SAS all
the way, avoiding the need to collect the luggage and check it in
again. Eating pizza at Pizza Hut. Airports are boring, not much
happens. People run around talking in their mobile phones. 13:45 land
our tin of sardines in Luleå. All our baggage, too. Backpack
without its plastic packaging. What's the point in laminate them when
the luggage staff anyway wear of it, the first thing they do? Difficult
for them to handle.
Take the shuttle bus to the centre of Luleå, which takes 20 minutes. Near
the bus terminal, the terminal is as dull as an airport, is an Asian
restaurant. We eat fried rice mixed with a little of everything, tastes
good. Bus 16:45 to Jokkmokk, half asleep as well as on the plane.
Passing beautiful lakes. Vuollerim, known for its 6000 years old
settlement, is a fairly large community. Thought it was only an ancient
monument. When I booked our room at the hostel in Jokkmokk, I wondered
what to do if the bus is late since the hostel close at 20:00?
"The bus is never late," was the reply. 19:46, exactly on schedule, we
go off at the stop outside the hostel.
The hostel is full, those who has not booked get help to find other
shelter. Walk a round in the village. I'm hungry. "Excuse me" I say to
two girls to ask for a hot-dog stand . They look scared. One say "Hej"
today according to A, not my ancient "Excuse me" jargon. I'm becoming a
frightening ancient monument. Buy instead a "plastic sandwich" at the
Statoil petrol station, which is eaten in the kitchen at the hostel.
The kitchen is full, talk to talkative Inlandsbanan ("the inland
25 August: Jokkmokk - Kvikkjokk
It is cool in the room, we had the window slightly open during the
night . We eat the breakfast of the hostel. It is good and something of
everything. Pack our things and put the backpack on the veranda at the
back of the house. Go to the ICA store, Raiden, buy methylated
spirit, hard bread, chocolate, and fruit. Sit a while on the hostel
At the twelve we go to Ájtte fjällmuseum and eat lunch,
boiled reindeer with boiled potatoes and blood dumpling ("blodklimp").
The first time I eat blood dumpling, it is done on reindeer blood
and flour which is then boiled. Reminds a bit of black pudding, my
favorite dish, which I fry crispy in slices, eat with lingonberries and
grated raw carrot. The blood dumpling tastes good, but black pudding is
even tastier. Returning to the veranda and wait until it's time to take
the bus to Kvikkjokk 15.10.
The bus drives on to me "new" roads, bringing school children to
houses and small villages. At six o'clock we get off at the mountain
station. We get room 6 in the old house. Two friendly goats are
wandering around outside the mountain station. Go down to the
landing-stage, we are going tomorrow to follow Linnaeus' way up on
Prinskullen through Vallevagge towards Tarraluoppal. The boat is 9:30
to the Padjelanta trail, but you can be left at the path up to
Prinskullen. Goes back to the room to pack for the hike. The backpack
becomes full, the last thing do not want get down into it. Irritated do
I push hard. OUCH! It cuts and cracks in my back. Cracked and broken,
in a double sense, I go to bed.
Vuollerim 6000 year - an archaeological open-air museum
Norrbotten county traffic authority
The Inland railway
STF hostel in Jokkmokk