Jotunheimen 1988
Gjendesheim - Memurubu - Storådalen- Urdadalen - Visdalen- Glitterheim - Russvatnet - Memurubu

Day1: 18 August, Gjendesheim - Gjendesjön, 2 km

In the evening did I ask for an alarm call, but I wake up by myself before they call. I have spent the night at the  hotel Dronningen in Trondheim. Yesterday I said goodbye to my girlfriend after having done a nice hike in Abisko, and travelled together to Trondheim. Today I will continue to Jotunheimen and hike there together with a friend. I eat a simple breakfast at the hotel, before I leave for the train to Otta. The train is almost fully occupied, with force do I manage to store my rucksack in the place reserved for luggage. The train leave at 8.40, after three hours am I in Otta. On the way have I seen a beautiful landscape. In Otta do I meet my friend. Since I'm hungry do I eat what is remaining of his lunch.  At one do the bus to Gjendesheim leave, and after two hours do we arrive to Gjendesheim at the lake Gjende. Gjende is a beautiful bluegreen lake, surrounded with steep mountainslopes. High up is Besseggi, a narrow passage with a far reaching view, which we plan to walk on our way back. Today we walk a few kilometers an a track along the lake, we find a good campsite where we stay for the night. It is cloudy, 15 degrees, but with a cold wind.

Day2: 19 August, Gjendesjön - Memurubu, 8 km

It rains all night, with a strong wind. The rain continue all morning, after lunch does it cease and we leave. The track is along the lake, undulating on the mountain slope. It is a wet track through the birch forest. It's a hard work. The rain seems to start at any moment, but it keeps away. At six do we reach Memurubu touriststation. We don't feel for continuing, and pay 25 NK for tenting and 5 NK for a shower. The girl in the reception is in a very bad mood.

Day3: 20 August, Memurubu - Storådalen, 11 km

It rains all night. When we start the day is it dry, but heavy clouds cover the sky. During the morning do we follow the river in the valley Memurudalen, a gentle slope from 1000 m to about 1200 m. At the end of the valley do the track continue on a steeper slope to Memurutunga, a difference of 300 m. It starts to rain again, and the rain follow us all the way up on Memurutunga. At four does it temporarily clear up and we get an hour of almost sunshine. We make a break and enjoy both the sunshine and the fantastic view. Far below us is the bluegreen lake Gjende, steep mountain sides surround it, but in the west is the valley Vesleådalen. On Memurutunga where we are is it barren, with some small lakes. It is easy to walk. We follow the track towards Storådalen, in front of us is 500 m down to the bottom of the valley. The rain has made track into a brook. At seven are we at the bottom of the valley, and we search for a place for the tent. It is nasty.  A quick bath, and food make us feel better. At nine does it start to rain. My friend point out that he has not been smoking today.

Day4: 21 August, Storådalen - Storådalen, 0 km

It rains all night, and all morning. After lunch does it get dry. We decide to stay here. In the afternoon do we make a short excursion. Where we are is the valley green, e.g. I find a beautiful Field gentian. Further up in the valley is it more barren, there is an impressive rapid in the end. We have our tent close to the track, which is well used. Today do nobody use it, the only visitors we have are eight young bulls that give us a visit in the evening. They are very obtrusive, and we take our refuge on a large stone. The bulls do instead investigate our tent. As we are afraid that they will damage it, do we get courage and leave our stone and unhesitatingly do we convince them to leave. The freeze-dried hotpot is uninteresting, perhaps we should have slaughtered one of the bulls.

Day5: 22 August, Storådalen - Urdadalen, 11 km

It rains all night. The rain give up during the morning and we leave. On the mountains is newly fallen snow. We walk on the track to the rapids at the end of the valley. We stay for a while and admire the water and the view of Storådalen. The water in the brook come from a lake, it well from the lake. On the other side of the lake is the mountain Skorddalseggi (2159) visible. We walk on meadows along the lake, until we reach the brook from the lake Langvatnet. Our track turn towards Urdadalen. From the slope to the mountain pass can we see back towards Langvatnet, with Skorddalseggi behind it.

There is a short but intense snowfall. As we get further up is the ground stony, at the end all stones. We pass two small lakes. Small cairns show the way. Two norwegians pass us, they smile pitying at our heavy rucksacks. They carry a minimal of weight since they walk from hut to hut. From the highest point do we get a nice view of northern Urdadalen with the two lakes in the centre. Far away is the western part of Visdalen. As we proceed is there more and more vegetation. We pass the lakes, after a few kilometers do we at the brook from the lake find a decent place for the night. It is six o'clock, six degrees and cloudy.

Day6: 23 August, Urdadalen - Visdalen, 9 km

It has NOT rained during the night. Instead is it cold, around zero. Our tent is placed on a washboard, so I wake up once an hour to change position. This will be an easy day, starting with a gentle downhill slope to Visdalen. The vegetation get more normal as we approch Visdalen, the brook in Urdadalen broaden. Visdalen is a broad valley surrounded with high mountains, inbetween the peaks are small glaciers. The track is up on the slope, away from the river in the valley. We pass one major brook, from the glacier Hellstugubreen, but today is there not much water in the brook. Now and then do we have sunshine.

We walk easily on the track to the mountain station Spiterstulen, which is at the end of a road. The place seems luxurious. We follow the road for a kilometer, then there is track to Glitterheim. A short shower pass quickly by. After having followed the track uphill for a kilometer do we decide to camp, though it is not later than three o'clock. We suspect that there are not may campsites on Skautflyi, since it is at a rather high altitude and therefore stony. We think we have seen the summit of Galdhöpiggen on the other side of the valley, though clouds most of the time hide the peaks. We enjoy the sunset and the views.

Day7: 24 August, Visdalen - Glitterheim, 13 km

The clouds hang on the mountains when we leave at half past nine, and walk the slope up to Skautflyi. As we get higher up can we look over to the other side of Visdalen, with the glacier Styggebreen and the peak of Galdhöpiggen. The clouds are now rather high up, so the peaks are visible. There some clouds inbetween us and the bottom of the valley. There are no problems on the way up to Skautflyi, which is a plateau on 1500 meters. As usual at these altitudes is the ground covered with stones, and not much grow here. We pass a lake, in the south are there small glaciers on the mountain slopes. Veobreen is the largest one, in southeast does it disappear down into Veodalen. It is easy to walk here, if one have good shoes. We meet a company where a woman walk in gym shoes, her feets suffer badly. The slope up to the lakes between Ryggehöi and Veopallan consists of larger stones. At the lake is it again easier to walk.

After the lakes do Veodalen show up. Here we take a break to admire the view. The break is hort, though it is eight degrees is it rather cold. It is somewhat steep and stony down to the valley, but nothing difficult. Veobreen is seen in the west, the water from it spread out in many streams. We walk down to the river, where we can walk on meadows. Really nice. Half past six do we find a place for the night, at the riverside a few kilometers away from the tourist station Glitterheim. We have got good weather, and get a nice evening.

Day8: 25 August, Glitterheim - Russvatnet, 12 km

For once do we have good weather, there are no clouds on the sky where we are. We can see the peak of the snowy Glittertinden (2472). Clouds can be seen at the horizan, and they approach us rapidly. We enjoy the sun and the nice valley for the time being. Soon do we reach the tourist station Glitterheim. There is a road to the station, so this is probably a starting/end point for many that visit Jotunheimen. We look in through a window, and see a dining-hall. Many prepare themselves for the day with a good breakfast. We continue to the bridge over the river Veo, and after the bridge do track go up to the mountain pass between austre and vestre Hestlægerhöi (1685m). It is an easy walk, at the beginning with a nice view of the valley we just left. The clouds have now arrived and they hide the views. When we reach the highest part is there almost no visibility, we follow the cairns to find our way.

The temperature is now six degrees and we meet a cold wind. We meet two frozen persons, the complain wildly about the weather. It is now downhill, and after a while are we under the clouds again. When we approach the bridge over the brook Blåtjörnåi can we see the lake Russvatnet. The track continue to the lake. Nearby Blackwellbui is a beach where we decide to stay. Both the air and water are cold, a bath is not to think of. The clouds hang down on the mountain side, with steep slopes on the opposite side of the lake.

Day9: 26 August, Russvatnet - Memurubu, 6 km

There has been many showers during the night, in the morning is it dry but cloudy. Just after we have left is there a drizzle. The track follow the lake beneath Gloptind. We leave the lake behind us and walk up in nedre Russglopet,  it is slightly uphill on a nice track. The mountains are barely visible in the drizzle. In the middle of the valley is lonely hill, after it do we pass a minor wetland which the track avoid by passing east of it. At the end of the valley is it steeply uphill. Our aim is to walk Besseggi, a narrow passage to Gjendesheim and with a magnificient view. As we get higher up do we enter into fog, i.e. the clouds, and we do not see much. The track is wet and slippery. It is not tempting to walk on Besseggi in this weather, so we decide to continue to Memurubu. When we get below the clouds again do we get a nice of the lake Gjende and the valley Memurudalen, with the mountain Sjugurdtinden. The track down to Memurubu is easy and soon are we there. We have a shower, eat, and wait for the boat to Gjendesheim 14.40. In the meantime do we study a small small male dog, trying to cover a large large female dog. Poor dogs, he do not reach. We consider to help them, but then owners realise what is happening and separate the two lovers.

The boat take us to Gjendesheim, where a bus leave to Otta at 15.30. In Otta do we change to the train to Oslo at 18.45. On the train do my rucksack fall down from the luggage rack and do almost kill me and an old man in front of me. Embarrasing. We arrive 22.25 at Oslo, and manage to get tickets on the train to Sweden 22.55. We have to sit, there is no sleeping place. At five in the morning do we change train in Halmstad. A few hours later am I at home.

© Mjörnmark,