Kvikkjokk - Pårek - Ivarlako - Jeknavagge - Kaskavagge - Sarvesvagge - Neitarieppvagge - Alkavagge - Kuopervagge - Nasasvagge - Alkajaure - Njåtjosvagge - Säkok - Pårek - Kvikkjokk, 172 km
Day1: 18 August, Kvikkjokk - Vallasjauratjah, 13 km
We arrive at Kvikkjokk around noon. Kikkjokk is a small village at a system of lakes and rivers. There is a small shop, a church, and some twenty permanent inhabitants. The mountains are seen in the distnace, close but far away. The touring club has here a very nice mountain station. The bus stop is close to the mountain station, which is located at the wild Kamajåkkå. The weather is pleasant today. At the mountain station is a simple weighing machine for backpackings. Thirtytwo kilograms. It is heavy,and it feels heavy. The main weight is the food for more than two weeks. We do not stay but we follow Kungsleden north towards Aktse. It is uphill, the backpacking feels even heavier. This part of Kungsleden is through a forest, partly spruce. The track is full of stones and roots. Many pair of feets have scupltured it. After six kilometers do we abandon Kungsleden and follow a clearly visible track towards Pårek.
This is one of the most used entry points to Sarek. First is a wet marsh, then one enter a more dry track through the forest before reaching the lake Unna-Tata. The track follow the lake Unna-Tata. It is up and down, mostly up. The trees become smaller and smaller. At a small lake in the neighbourhood of Vallasjauratjah is it enough for today. It is late afternoon and the body protest against the weight. We have now reached the flat land of Pårek. In front of us are the mountains of Pårte, closer than three hours earlier but they still look as distant as before. The mountains are mirrored in our lake. There is no wind, and the season for mosquitous is over.
Day2: 19 August, Vallasjauratjah - Ivarlako, 12 km
We wake up in sunshine. We have now left the birch forest. On the way to Pårekjaure are several mires, with deep brooks. Due to the many visitors is the track a broad road of black mud at these places. It makes it difficult to keep the route (here is now a prepared track, and is no longer any problem). At one place do I get to far into the middle of such a road, I sink down in the mud and have problems in getting back to a safer place. I resque with some effort one of my boots. The nice weather invites to a bath in Pårekjaure. The fording place at Pårekjaure consists of flat stones laid out in the water. One is again in a birch forest. After a kilometer do one arrive at the lapp cots of Pårek, the former lapp summer "village". These are not seemed to be used any longer. Here we have our lunch. My friend has got a hole in his trousers, while he repair them do I enjoy the sunshine.
From here is it easy to walk up on Pårte (2005), a nice gentle slope. On the way up do one pass an observatory, which is locked. We do not do this, but we continue in the direction towards Stuor-Jerta. First we walk along the brook Kaskakårsåjåkåtj, enough far up to avoid the large area with osier. Then we keep the height towards Stuor-Jerta. On the way are a few minor places with osier, and it is rather stony. We pass a few small brooks, none of them is problematic. After a few hours are we on the flat land Ivarlako. Not really flat, it is up and down in what looks like dry river beds. Further on are marshes scattered through the landscape. A clear sky, it is getting colder when the afternoon is replaced by the evening . Time to put up the tent. We sit outside looking at the sunset and eat our dinner. The warm sleeping bag feels good.
Day3: 20 August, Ivarlako - Jeknavagge, 11 km
The body aches. It is not used to the weight of the backpacking. Especially not my right knee. It hurts, and will do for the rest of the tour. We have a lazy morning, before we aim for the bridge across Kåtokjåkkå. It is easy to walk here though one must cross a few small marshes, and soon do we see the jåkk in front of us. It has during the years cut itself deep into the rock. It would be very difficult to get across without the bridge. Then one would have to get up on the glacier Pårtejekna or down in the delta. The bridge has been destroyed several times by the spring flood. We were here 1985 as well, then the bridge was gone. If you plan to use the bridge, ask at the mountain station if it exists. No special equipment is needed to pass on the glacier tongue, no cracks, and it is flat. But it is a detour. The general advice is not to try to ford Kåtokjåkkå. At low water may it be possible to ford it at a few places between the glacier and Jeknavagge, or in Rapadalen. Deadly accidents have happened.
After the lunch at the bridge, do we walk along the jåkk towards Jeknavagge, the alpine valley inbetween Kåtoktjåkkå and Skaitetjåkkå. Abandon the jåkk and continue into Jeknavagge along the brook that comes from the valley. We plan to visit Kåtoktjåkkå, and then somehow continue to Sarvesvagge. We meet a family who have come from Sarvesvagge walking in the Rapavalley, they had difficulties in getting through the dense vegetation. The other and easiest alternative is Lullihavagge further west. We have already decided to use one of the mountain pass from Jeknavagge. While approaching higher altitudes is the vegetation getting sparse. The valley is rather stony, camping grounds are rare. At the lake, Jeknajaure (1191), is it difficult to find a good camping ground. We find after some searching a perfect place at the east side of the lake. It has been cloudy during the day, now it clears up. Looks promising for the excursion up to Kåtoktjåkkå (1928) tomorrow. The mountains around the lake is looking friendly at us.
Day4: 21 August, Jeknavagge - Jeknavagge, 0 km
Rain, rain, and fog. All day. The other side of the lake is barely visible. The planned excursion is abandoned. We blame Kåtoktjåkkå for it. The mountain do not welcome us. We name it after the swedish pronounciation (in english translation 'Horny and fat', of course not the proper translation). Kåtoktjåkkå is on the east side of the valley and is said to be rather easy to walk up on. In the west is Skaitetjåkkå (1933) more difficult. We stay most of the day in the tent, the rain pours down. We take a short walk along the lake, this is not a weather to be out in. Reading our books. Make soup, eat. Making up plans for tomorrow, hoping for better weather. We do not want to cross the mountain pass in clouds, neither to return and take another way.
We decide to reach Sarvesvagge through the mountain pass in Kaskavagge (1404), between Skaitetjåkkå and Unna Stuollo. On the map is this valley without a name, but on an older map is it called Kaskavagge. When we looked at the mountain pass yesterday evening did the slope look gentle with large snowfields. The time pass by slowly and the rain continue. The lake is described to be mediterranean blue, but not today. It is grey and looks very cold. We make a stone-excursion, trying to find as many types of lichens as possible. The sound of the raindrops falling on the canvas, makes us to fall asleep early.
Day5: 22 August, Jeknavagge - Sarvesvagge, 9 km
Clouds cover the sky and the mountain peaks. But we can see the mountain pass in Kaskavagge between Skaitetjåkkå and Unna Stuollo. Good enough. We ford the jåkk from Jeknajaure close to the lake, the water is cold, but it is easy to cross. On the other side is it even more stony. We continue up the slope towards Kaskavagge. A snowfield starts early, which makes it easier to walk, else is it only stones. No vegetation. All of Jeknavagge is now visible behind us, the clouds hurry along the mountain sides. The lake is also today grey. The view is nice. The height difference to the highest point is only 200 meters. The snow field continues all the way to the highest point. Here there is no snow, but instead is it packed with stones which make it rathet easy to walk here. At the highest point is Tielma on the other side of Sarvesvagge seen. After the highest point is another large snowfield. The white snow, the green Tielma, and the grey clouds, creates a fascinating scenery. (I have been told that in 2003 was this snow field not there, a consequence of the warmer climate?)
All the way to where Kaskavagge meet Kaskasvagge, which join from the left, can we walk on the snow. The jåkk in Kaskavagge is hidden under the snow, we can hear the sound of it. The sharply V-shaped valley down to Sarvesvagge is partly difficult. Better not to fall, at some places is there not much that prevents one from falling tens of meters down into the jåkk. It feels like that when looking down. The joining brook before Lulep Stuollo have cut deep into the rock, and the snowbridge across do not look very reliable. The bridge is only one meter thick, and a few meters wide. The brook three meter beneath is full with water. We hesitate for a moment, can not see any other easy way to cross. We pass without mishappenings. It is rather tiring and slow to walk on the steep slope. It is late afternoon when we reach the birch forest in Sarvesvagge.Along Sarvesjåkkå are many good places for a tent. We are hungry and tired, and hurry to make ourselves at home. An elk look suspicious at us, swims across Sarvesjåkkå and disappears on the other side. The jåkk sings cradle songs.
Day6: 23 August, Sarvesvagge - Sarvesvagge, 10 km
During the night has a single reindeer, we have baptised it to 'Oncle Reindeer', made us company. He has several times stumbled on the strings supporting the tent. He must have got a cold, since he cough and sneeze. Today is it the most beautiful weather one can think of. A day for recreation and the plan is to make an excursion into Rapaselet. First we wash our used clothers and ourself in the jåkk, including the hair, it is really needed. We leave the clothes to dry in the sunshine, and start the excursion. To start with is it through a sparse birch forest. The brook Stuolajåkåtj from Piellarieppe is split into a delta, none of the arms carry much water this early in the morning.
The closer one get to Rapadalen, the worse the vegetation is. Large osiers, several meters high, makes it difficult to get further. We give up, and ford a few channels, getting into Rapaselet. At a few places is it like quicksand, my friend get too close and start to sink. He escape back to a safer place. No danger, but we do not dare to examine it more closely. Instead do a beautiful meadow invite us to take a long break, which includes a late lunch . Nearby where we are is it possible to ford the Sarvesjåkkå and Rapariver when low water, we see a company of six persons slowly find their way. It is getting late in the afternoon, and we return to our tent. The sun has made the snow up in Piellarieppe to melt, and Stuolajåkåtj is now less friendly but still no problems. Oncle Reindeer is patiently waiting for us. Alone as he is, does he like our company. Our clothes are dry.
Day7: 24 August, East Sarvesvagge - West Sarvesvagge, 12 km
Oncle reindeer meet some other friends, and swim across Sarvesjåkkå together with them. Waving goodbye, and he and his new friends disappear in the dense vegetation. We start in good weather, walking west in Sarvesvagge. The birch forest disappear behind us, it is replaced with zigzaging through areas with small osiers. At the same time are we looking for a good place to ford Sarvesjåkkå. A good place, we have no hurry. It is rather difficult in the east part towards Rapavalley. It can wait for tomorrow. The brooks joining Sarvesjåkkå are easy to cross. The ones from Kaskasvagge and Lullihavagge/Nåitevagge do we ford in their delta. Further up can they be more problematic. We continue along the shore of the jåkk, or is using reindeertracks as much as possible.
The osiers give up, dwarf birch and grass takes over the ground. This is more comfortable, and we can speed up. It is five in the afternoon. We have made it into a habit to start looking for a camping site at this time. Then one is almost sure to find a good place, before one is getting too tired and hungry. This part of Sarvesvagge offers many good places. We find a place close to where the brook from Luottojaure enter Sarvesjåkkå. In addition do the mountains in the evening dress up for the night with dark clouds, threatening us with rain. The threat becomes soon true, but then we are since long safe in the tent. We are not far from Neitarieppvagge, our shortcut to Alkavagge. Sarvesjåkkå looks more good-natured up here, it will probably not be any problem to cross it near the watershed. The U-shaped Neitarieppvagge is waiting for us.
Day8: 25 August, West Sarvesvagge - Alkavagge, 12 km
We follow Sarvesjåkkå, cross the brook from the glacier Nuortap Luottojekna on Ryggåsberget. We wait to ford Sarvesjåkkå until it is time to enter Neitarieppvagge. We are not far from the watershed of Sarvesvagge, and there is here not much water in the jåkk. We choose the west side of the Neitarieppvalley. The height difference up to the highest point in Neitarieppvagge is almost 400m. Halfway up is a large snowfield. Looking back is the plateau Luottolako clearly seen. The clouds are high up, and some of the peaks at Pårte build up the horizon. Further up is the snow field replaced by large stones, without any obvious reason to be here, far away from the mountain slopes. The stones have been placed here by the many avalanches during many centureis. One has to jump between them. My friend slip on the wet stones, and disappear somewhere inbetween two large stones. My first thought is that he has broken everything. But the rucksack is a good shock absorber.
We realise that west side was a bad choise and switch to the east side of the valley where the sun has better access, the vegetation on the ground benefits from it. The best choise is probably to walk high up on the east side from the beginning. After passing the highest point, 1180m, is it rather flat. It would possible to put up the tent here. Today do the sun not show up very much, except temporarily when we start the descend the 400m down to Alkavagge. From here one see Lanjektjåkkå in the north, in the west do the view of Alkajaure and the delta of Alkajåkkå show up. It is worth spending a long break sitting looking at it. We turn east and descend on the slope down to Alkavagge for a few kilometers. Here we do not encounter any stony areas. On the contrary. No problem to find a camping site down in Alkavagge. We choose one near Alkajåkkå, there is some osier but not of any significance.
Day9: 26 August, Alkavagge - Kuopervagge, 18 km
We start the day with walking on the south side of the valley. We are accompanied by a few showers. There is no problem to walk on this side, the brooks from the glaciers are easy to cross. The one from Akkajekna is crossed iin the delta. One quickly moves ahead. The mountains stand majestatic on the both sides of the valley. In the eastern part of the valley is a large flat area with grass, many small brooks stroll through it, almost as a large football ground. We change side after Akkavagge, aiming for Kuopervagge. A violent shower attack us at the corner between the valleys. Afterwards do the sun smile at us, and we can have our lunch in sunshine.
One turn almost 180 degrees to get into Kuopervagge. There is no major problem in Kuopervagge. Use the north side of the valley if you are going towards Akka, else may Låutakjåkkå give problem. We stay on the south side.At the highest point is the water from the glacier Vattendelarglaciären floating both east and west, creating an area with many rills, there is not much water in them and we can walk in the middle of it. At a few places are stony areas but one can not say that it makes it difficult to walk, we enjoy the day. Kuoper (1686) can look down at us from an almost clear sky. The day end close to Nasasvagge, the turning point of our tour.
Day10: 27 August, Kuopervagge - Alkajaure, 14 km
Dark thick clouds cover the sky. One of our plans is to walk up on Lanjektjåkkå from Nasasvagge. It is said to be rather easy from that side. We hope for better weather and leave for walking up the slope into Nasasvagge. Halfway up to Nasasvagge is herd of reindeers. A large male study us unfriendly, lowering his head. Then he start to run towards us, with top speed. 200m, 100m, 50m, 20m, suddenly he change direction with 180 degrees and run back to where he came from. Satisfied having frightened us. We continue and follow the brook from the lake Nasasjaure up in the valley. It starts to rain, and the ground get closer to the clouds. A reindeer fence is blocking our way, but many hikers before us has partly destroyed it. We easily find a way over it prepared by others. We find the lake Nasasjaure, and follow the shore. Not much else visible.
Lunch. Warm soup. This is delicious. It is raining, so what to do next? Wait for better weather, and try Lanjektjåkkå tomorrow? Food supply, and the stony ground, decide for us.Continue! Nasasjaure disappear in the fog behind us.The downhill slope gives the correct direction to Mielätno. Within short are we below the clouds, and Mielätno meander in front of us. Beautiful, fog is something special, nature looks much softer and different, a beauty as well. Admire it, and eat some chocolate to get more energy. The rain increase in intensity. Walk on the moors, down to the bridge over Mielätno. On the other side is it flat, short grass cover the ground. We find the "emergency hut" in the osier at Alkajaure. A friendly person has left dead osier to dry in the hut. We soon have a warming fire, we hang our wet things around it. It is good to be indoor in a weather like this, we can hear the rain knocking on the door. We do not let it in. (In November 2001 was the hut removed, it was in a bad shape).
Day11: 28 August, Alkajaure - Njåtjosvagge (Luottojåkkå), 21 km
It is still warm in the hut from the now dead fire, or can it be the sun? It is the sun! We clean ourselves and our clothes thouroghly in the lake, and put the wet things on the roof of the hut to let it dry. It dries quickly in the sunshine. We collect some dead osier, and put it in the hut for the next visitors. The day start along the west side of Alep Sarvesjåkkå, soon passing the small brook Rissajåkkå. At Tjågnåriskaite do we take the direction towards Njåtjosvagge. It is sligth uphill when we walk along Tjågnårisjåkkå, which is almost empty of water, walking on grassy meadow at the two lakes Tjågnårisjauratj and Skiejakjauratj, before reaching the northern part of the V-shaped Njåtjosvagge with the blue-green lakes. A magnificient view of the valley show up.
This valley is together with upper Rapavalley the most beautiful valley in Sarek. The east side do not give any problems, though there are some stony areas. On the west side is it steeper and looks more stony. We walk along the east shores of the lakes Alep, Kaska, and finally Lulep Njåtjosjaure. Tsatsa looks like a pyramid formed chocalate cake, dark and with creamlike snow strips down towards the lake. After the lakes do the valley open up, and there is a rather high water fall when the jåkk falls down. We decide to follow the river. This is a bad decision, it is wet and with a somewhat irritating vegetation of mainly low osier. It is probably better to walk further up on the slope (done 1990). The sun prepares for the night behind a quilt down. We do the same at the bridge over the fierce Luottojåkkå (the bridge was gone 1990), where put our tent.
Day12: 29 August, Njåtjosvagge (Luottojåkkå) - Säkokjåkkå, 18 km
From the bridge is an almost visible, i.e. partly invisable, track through the vegetation, which consist of osier and small birches. If one miss the track then one has to fight or try to get above the tree level. At the Njåtjoshut (locked, and it was removed in November 2001 since it was in a bad shape) do we meet the second example of human beings during the trip. At the hut is the fording place of the joint brook of Skaitatj-jåkkå and Palkat-jåkkå. The same type of vegetation continue for a few kilometers. We try to gain some height before fording Ruopsokjåkkå, but not too much. One must avoid the steep canyon further up. It is better to cross it in the delta. We reach it fairly high up and get rather steep slopes down to it. The brook is deep, swift and cold.
Then the slope up to Säkok start, it is 600 meters uphill in a few kilometers. The reward is first the view north towards Njåtjosvagge. On Säkok is it stony and not much grow, but there are no problems in walking there. We get a bit lost, and end up at the edge of Säkok towards Njåtjosvagge instead as planned heading for the area around Tjeurajaure. Strange, is is good weather and not difficult to navigate. It is not a bad mistake. We continue on the slope towards Njåtjosvagge aiming for Säkokjåkkå. On the way are several meadows, covered with buttercups, and a view south down into Njåtjosvagge, at the horizon is Vallespiken. The tent is raised at Säkokjåkkå. It is better to wait for tomorrow morning before fording it, it carries much water and is fierce. It is easier in the morning when there is less water. A few reindeers visit us in the early morning, I look out from the tent watching them. It seems to become a beautiful day, there are no clouds on the sky.
Day13: 30 August, Säkokjåkkå - Njakajåkkå (Kungsleden), 16 km
It is as expected much less water in the jåkk in the morning, and we can walk almost dry-shod to the other side of the brook. From now on is it downhill, and it feels good. The vegetation is mainly heath which makes it very comfortable to walk, but at Pårek, where the birch forest begin, is a moor. We find a track which we follow, else may it be a problem finding the way. The stones at the fording place of Pårekjaure have now their heads above the water, which makes it easy to jump between them.
We take a lunch break at the lake, and spend some time sunbathing and short bath. The weather is fantastic. We struggle through the marches, we do not find them as terrible as when walking in the opposite direction, but one should protect the ground in some way. It looks terrible with these black roads in the mud (In 1985 was there wooden planks on the track to protect it). Through the forest at Unna-Tata is it somewhat up and down. Resting at a stone are two other hikers on their way to Sarek, we ask them to take a photo of us. After two weeks is the inspiration approaching zero. Squelch through the swamp Tatajegge, before reaching Kungsleden. We find an open place in the forest at Njakajåkkå. Here we stay for the night.
Day14: 31 August, Njakajåkkå (Kungsleden) - Kvikkjokk, 6 km
We are not far from Kvikkjokk, and now we have downhill through the coniferous forest. We have planned to stay over night at the mountain station, which means that there is no reason to hurry. The bus to Murjek leaves tomorrow morning. We arrive at lunch to Kvikkjokk. During the afternoon do we stroll around looking at the village, very small, and the magnificient rapids of Kamajåkkå. A car pass by, it smells awful. Our noses have got accustomed to fresh air. We share a hut with two others, there is an odour. They have neither washed clothes or themselves during the two weeks they spent on walking Padjelantaleden from Ritsem. The mountain station has a good restaurant. We choose reindeer with potato puree and lingonberries, afterwards ice cream with fresh cloudberries. Civilisation has it's advantages.
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