Sarek 1985
Kvikkjokk - Pårek - Säkok - Luottolako - Nåitevagge - Lullihavagge - Pårtejekna - Ivarlako - Kungsleden - Kvikkjokk, 97 km

Day1: 22 August, Kvikkjokk - -, 0 km

I arrive to Kvikkjokk with bus from Murjek, where I arrived by train in the early morning. My friend, who has walked on Kungsleden from Nikkaluokta, is waiting fo rme. He has spent a few days in Kvikkjokk, mainly drinking coffee in the restaurant of the mountain station. So much that he finally got free coffee. During the hike from Nikkaluokta did he have perfect weather, but now it is raining. We decide to stay overnight at the mountain station, and spend the afternoon looking at Kvikkjokk; the church, the lake, and the helicopters.

Day2: 23 August, Kvikkjokk - Pårek, 17 km

When we wake up next morning  is it overcast, but no rain, so we leave as soon as possible. The first part is on Kungsleden, north through the forest. A pure transportation, though the coniferous is fantastic. The trail is "broad" as a highway. After about six kilometers do we follow the track towards Pårek, this is the same route as we walked 1982. The track wind through a birch forest, up and down the hills. Things have changed since 1982, there are now wooden planks layed out on the ground through the wet areas. Well done, the black muddy roads are now absent and we can proceed without difficulties.  Around the small lakes before Pårek is there no forest, but it reappears as small birches at Pårek. A small glade in the birch forest  north of the lake Pårekjaure become our home for the night.

Day3: 24 August, Pårek - Ruopsokjåkkå, 15 km

One must first walk a few kilometers through the forest, then one come to the moor on the gentle slope towards Säkokjåkkå. If one manage to find and follow a track do the forest not present any problems. There is today a clear sky and fresh air. The view towards the low land in the south is magnificient. The landscape disappear in the far distance. Last time, 1982, did we pass Säkokjåkkå close to the forest. This year do we follow the track on the moor up to where the outlet from Tjeurajaure join Säkokjåkkå. The track is on the newer map. But as soon as one leave the forest is the track not really needed. It is anyway extremely easy to walk up the gentle slope.  We arrive to Säkokjåkkå at lunch.

Where we arrive at Säkokjåkko do the water flow deep below the snow that covers the brook. Which makes it very comfortable to get the other side of the brook, it is just to walk on the snow. It is definitely thick enough to be safe. A cloudless Pårte look down at us. Tomorrow will we walk up towards it from the west side. Can it read our thoughts? After our lunch do we continue along the brook from Tjeurajaure, where the ground is dressed with grass. From Tjeurajaure is it rather steep uphill to Säkok. The not so well trained legs protest. The protest is firmly rejected. Not much is growing up here, small stones are scattered all over the place. We keep the height on the slope of Tjeura towards Ruopsokjåkkå, and come to a rather flat area, where we get the view of Njåtjosvagge. We are soon at the brook Ruopsokjåkkå. The brook has made a canyon, and this far up (we are roughly at 1000m)  are there not many flat places nearby it, and that is also without any stones. After some searching do we find a place which is not exactly flat but good enough to spend the night.

Day4: 25 August, Ruopsokjåkkå - -, 0 km

Shit! It is raining. We have breakfast and wait, and hope for better weather. We spend an hour searching for a good place to ford the jåkk. On at least on side is it a few meters vertical wall, but it turns out that close to our tent is a place with reasonable slopes on both sides. At lunch is it mainly dry, the clouds have climbed up along the mountains. We abandon our plans to visit Pårte, instead do I decide to try Tjeura/Ruopsokvaratj. My friend prefer to rest in the tent. I follow the jåkk upstream, where the brook from Tjeura join do I follow this instead, I have left  the vegetation and is entering a stony area. Due to the rain is it very slippery. Suddenly do the clouds dive down on me,and it starts to rain again. I wait for a while, but the rain increase in intensity. So I give up, and return to the tent. On the way down do I almost trample on a grouse, it is lying almost invisible on the ground. The camouflage is perfect. When I'm back at the tent do we warm ourself with blueberry soup. It is getting dark early this evening, the thick clouds prevent the sunlight to reach us.

Day5: 26 August, Ruopsokjåkkå - Nåitevagge, 15 km

It is still cloudy, but there is no rain. We the fording place we found yesterday, which gives no problem. Though it has rained is there not much water in the brook. On the other side is it possible to climb up since the rock has collapses. It is a steep uphill to the plateau above Låmepuolta and beneath Låmetjåkkå, the plateua is at the altitude of 1200m. An armada of small clouds sail beneath us in Njåtjosvagge. It is fascinating to watch them as they pass beneath us, they partly hide the view of the valley. Above us is a compact layer of clouds. The plateau is comfortable to walk on, dressed with grass as it mainly is.We pass a few small ponds. At Palkat-jåkkå is it steep down to the jåkk. Though difficult to estimate, since the view is partly hidden by the clouds. We aim for Luottolako, so we  turn ninety degrees, climb a small vertical wall, and is entering Luottolako. A stony barren landscape meet us.

The mountain peaks and the glaciers in the east have pulled down the curtain, now and then do they open it up to let us watch them. In the west are the mountains not visible for us. Various types of lichens live on the stones, almost the only life visible here. It is a stony place, but they are small and packed which makes it easy to walk. One stone attract our attention, unfortunately are we not geologists. The stone is very beautiful, different from all the others. To Nåitevagge is it a stonefloor. The entrance to the valley is rather narrow, the mountain Nåite is our landmark to find it. There is not much growing in upper part of the narrow valley, but life returns in the valley as we descend. We choose to walk on the west side of the brook, why I do not remember. Probably no reason at all, but perhaps did we not trust to find a camping site on the other side. Where the valley meet Lullihavagge are good camping sites.

Day6: 27 August, Nåitevagge - Kåtokvagge, 16 km

First we ford Nåitejåkkåtj, then the brook from Lullihavagge. They are rather deep, deeper than our boots can handle. So we have to undress. It is no problem, but the water is cold. In the beginning is Lullihavagge comfortable. A few reindeers pass by, of which one is albino, i.e. white. We follow what we think is a reindeer track, leaving the brook far beneath us in a canyon. Further up in the valley do the stones take over. Here and there is a snowfield to walk on. A large stone attracts our attention again, it is yellow with a black, broad, wiggling band like a snake. So different from all the other stones. We pass the highest part, where the ground is all covered with stones, and the valley opens.

When we passed in 1982 was there a bridge over Kåtokjåkkå further downstream, but it was destroyed this year by the spring flood. This we were told at Kvikkjokk. We keep the height of 1000-1100 m and walk down to the brook. The landscape is barren, nothing grows here. Kåtokjåkkå is not easy to ford, I would not recommend doing it. The only way is to walk on the glacier, Pårtejekna. We follow the brook upstream to the edge of the glacier. From the glacier opening do the water exit with full speed. Grey, swift, and cold. We continue along the glacier for a few hundred meters, until it is flat enough to walk on. The glacier give no problem, no snow on it, no rifts. It is not even slippery, the ice is covered with gravel. There is no need for special equipment, our rubber boots are good enough as it is today. We leave the glacier, continue on the moraine towards Ivarlako and are looking for a place to spend the night. It takes a few kilometers before our requirements are fullfilled. We require water nearby, grass, and a soft ground. No fakir.....

Day7: 28 August, Kåtokvagge - Stuor Tata, 23 km

We wake up already at six. The sun makes a short visit. My friend say that the view east from Hournatj on Kungsleden is good, he walked there when he walked from Nikkaluokta to meet me in Kvikkjokk. I decide that I want to have a look at it. We hope that the heavy clouds that has appeared on the sky will disappear until the afternoon. To reach Huornatj do we cross Ivarlako. The main impression of this part of Ivarlako is: wet and areas with osier. But since it is almost flat is it easy to walk and our speed is high. It is a warm day, and humid. Sweating. The heavy clouds fall further down, and they pour their water on us. The visibility is very poor.

A day like this, will the view at Huornatj be no view. The clouds are now almost at ground level. We take a shortcut through the forest, and follow for a few kilometers a brook down to Kungsleden. The dense vegetation, mainly birches, embrace us. Kungsleden appear suddenly. This part of Kungsleden is through a forest, all the way to Kvikkjokk, mainly consisting of spruce. We take a break in the Pårte cabin, wondering if we should stay here over night. During the break is the weather improving, and we continue for a few more kilometers to the lake Stuor-Tata. A small opening in the forest at the shore is a perfect tenting site for us. We take a bath in the lake, and eat dinner in the sunset.

Day8: 29 August, Stuor Tata - Kvikkjokk, 11 km

The return of the sun. We have a lazy morning, and we let the tent dry in the sunshine. It is relaxing to sit at the lake, feeling the warm sunshine, while the tent get dry. The day is spent on Kungsleden. This close to Kvikkjokk is it a well used broad track through the forest. Roots and stones create artistic patterns on the ground, though it is not comfortable to walk on. After have been at the bare mountain region, do the forest give a feeling of being locked in. But the forest has its own beauty. We are not far from Kvikkjokk, and we arrive just after lunch time to the mountain station.

This year do we allow ourselves a double room at the mountain station. Avoiding sharing a hut with somebody else,as we did last time 1982. After having installed ourselves, do we examine the rapids of Kamajåkkå more closely. The water is in a great hurry. We walk slowly on the rocks beside it, thinking, many people spent all their lives in such a hurry. Buy food in the small shop in the village for breakfast and the journey back home tomorrow. The dinner is enjoyed in the restaurant at the mountain station. In the evening is there a slide show about the area, showing all the animals one never see. They hear or see you before you see them, and they disappear. One should sit down and be quite for a few days and waiting for them. Next morning do we walk down to the bus stop, which is just outside the mountain station at a small house with a kiosk.

© Mjörnmark,