Saltoluokta - Sitojaure - Skierfe - Jåkåtjkaskalako - Sitojaure - Pastavagge - Piela - Kukkesvagge - Sjnuftjutis - Ritsem, 122 km
Day1-2: 15-16 August, Björkliden - Sitojaure, 19 km
I arrived to Saltoluokta in the late afternoon with the boat from Kebnats. I come directly from a hike in Björkliden which I made together my girlfriend. My friend arrived earlier and had booked a room in one of huts at the mountain station, where we spend the night. We have also an excellent dinner in the restaurant at the mountain station. Here are not many visitors, it is rather late in the season. We are here to make a tour in Sarek. In the morning do we we start by walking uphill on Kungsleden through the birch forest, up to the open and flat Autsutjvagge. The mountains around it are small hills. The brook Autsutj-jåkkå, has made its way in a valley in the valley. The jåkk is surrounded with osier, but the track avoid the osier.
From the slope down toward Sitojaure do one have a good view. Halfway down to the lake do one enter the birch forest again, and one walk down the gentle slope to the lake Sitojaure. At the shore of the lake are the Sitojaure huts. From here is it possible to get transportation to Kungsleden at the other side of the lake, or if one aim for Pastavagge to Rinim, the northwest end of the lake. Why use the tent when there is a hut? We decide to stay in the hut. We stroll around studying the vegetation until it is time to sleep.
Day3: 17 August, Sitojaure - Jåkåtjkaskalako, 17 km
We try to find out if it is possible to be picked up with boat along the lake. We plan to walk Jåkåtjkaskalako and get down on the other side of the lake, halfway to Rinim at the northwest end of the lake. The forest along the lake is said to be difficult to get through. The host in the hut think it is possible, but nothing is decided. She will tell the people in Rinim to look for us when they pass during the next few days. We get transportation to the other side, from where we walk Kungsleden towards Aktse..Njunjes is as boring, flat, and windy as last time (1981). This year do we not go down to Aktse, the entrance to Rapavalley. Instead do we abandon Kungsleden after Tåresaive, and continue in the direction of Skierfe.
The height of Skierfe is not impressive, 1179m. But there is a 600 m almost vertical wall down to the delta of the river Rapaätno below it. Coming from Njunjes is the height difference to Skierfe not very large, the effort to walk up is minimal. There are no difficulties on the way up, but it is rather stony at the end. We leave the backpackings halfway, memorising where we put it. The view from Skierfe is as breathtaking as it is said to be. Rapadalen in the west, the wonderful delta beneath us, and a far reaching view towards east. We have lunch while admiring the view. The sun makes a short visit, which improves the view even more. We return to our backpackings, we miss them by 100 meters. Not to bad, but could be done better. Dark clouds appear on the sky, so we start looking for a nice place to stay over night. Near Skierfe is it too stony for us. We walk further towards Abmojåkkå, we finally find an acceptable place at a small rill. It is just in time, the rain start when we have made our home.
Day4-5: 118-19 August, Jåkåtjkaskalako - Jåkåtjkaskalako, 0 kmDay 4: 18 August, Jåkåtjkaskalako, 0 km
Wake up. Where are we ? Dense fog surround the tent. No visibility at all. Alone in our own universe. A strange feeling. Leave the tent, after five steps is it lost in the fog. Hurry back. The decision is easy, wait in the tent. The time pass by slowly, no sign of improvement. Sleep for a while, reading a book, coffee, chocolate, lunch. The fog is obstinate. No sound can be heard, completely quite. No wind. Walk around the tent, one, two, three, ..., fifty times. In all directions fog. Sleep for a while, reading a book, coffee, chocolate, dinner. A slight movement in the canvas. Wind ! Big bang, our universe expands, inflates. First the grass nearby form, then the stones further away, finally can one distinguish the lower part of hills and mountains. Back in the standard universe, in which it is raining. Tomorrow is a new day.
Day 5: 19 August, Jåkåtjkaskalako - Sitojaure, 14 km
Windy, cloudy, and cold.We know there are mountains in the west, but nothing is seen. In good weather is it possible to get into Pastavagge from Vassjavagge, over Vassjapakte (1600m), and down Skaitatjvagge. We choose to visit Sitojaure in the north instead. We live in a flat almost two dimensional world, limited by the ground and the clouds 100 meters above us. The terrain is easy, we arrive soon at Abmojåkkå. It is late august, Abmojåkkå is now a rill. We let it guide us to the small lake Abmojoure. West of the lake can we dimly see the base of the mountains.
After a short lunch at the lake, do we find the opening down to Sitojaure between Tjålle and Takarlåptå. It is steep downhill, and we serpentine our way down. We feel for having a site bordering on the lake, and we should also look for the boat to Rinim. Between us and the lake is a dense forest with large osiers. Brave us we are, forward! We try to follow the brook from Jåkåtjkaskalako, and end up in a fen. Deep water, one tend sink deeper in the mud for each step forward. We decide to return to safer ground, the site in our minds is not worth the effort. Two hundred meters took one hour, and one our back. The true distance was longer, one could not walk in a straight line. On the way back do we walk in the brook as much as possible, it turns out to easier in that way. Back up to the region above the tree line, we make our home on the border to the tree-line and near the brook. We deserve the dinner. Our dishcloth disappear among the stones in the brook. Despite a long search for it, is it gone. Will complicate the dishing.
Day6: 20 August, Sitojaure - Pastavagge, 9 km
Wake up at seven. Outside is it still overcast. The temperature manage to rise to ten degrees during the day. The weather is as usual the first thing one want to know. The plan for the day is to reach Pastavagge. It is not far away, but the experience of the forest yesterday, tells us that it may take some time. The best is to walk as high as possible on the mountain slope, in order to avoid most of the forest. This is not possible all the way, most of the time do one anyway have to find the way between stones and trees. But we do not enter into any fen. The vegetation is preparing for the automn. The green start to change into yellow and red, "la nouvelle mode". We move slowly forward, trying to find the easiest path.
Here and there are openings in the forest, with a beautiful view of Sitojaure. At lunch time do we leave the forest behind us. We pass Rinim, the place to which one can get boat transport from the Sitojaure huts. We had as said some day ago an "agreement" that we might get a transport today. Our effort to get at a boat transport to avoid the forest this morning was abandoned since we never managed to reach the lake. From Rinim do one walk on dry moors, between the small hill Namatis, and the mountain wall of Takar. We soon reach Pastavagge. Takar and Ruopak guard the entrance. They are impressive, but friendly if you behave well. From behind the clouds that surround the peaks, can we hear them whisper: it will rain, it will rain ... . The tent is soon placed at Lulep Pastajåkkå and huge stone, and dinner is served. It rains during the night.
Day7: 21 August, Pastavagge - Pierik, 17 km
The rain rattle on the canvas all night, it cease in the early morning. The air is cold and clear, it feels fresh. The mountain peaks are powdered with newly fallen snow. A taste of the approaching automn. The sun might give us a visit today. We start on the south side of the valley. Pastavagge is alpine, but presents no problems. On the contrary, it is dry, no fording, no stony areas, and a low vegetation. We switch to the north side, at the watershed before the outlet from the glacier Alep Pastajekna. When we pass the glacier is the sun breaking through the clouds. The mountain stretch, standing up in their beauty.
From the watershed is it slightly downhill, the sun shine more permanent, clouds run across the sky. The rest of the valley is comfortable. First the delta and then the blue-green water in the lake Pierikjaure appear, when approaching the west end of the valley. Sarvatjåkkå fill the view. We turn north, and follow the east side of the lake Pierikjaure. The area on the other side of the brook Pierikjåkkå seems to offer good camping grounds. It is time to start the searching. We pass Pierikvaratj, ford Pierikjåkkå at the outlet from Pierikjaure, where Pierikvaratj fall steeply. The impression we had is true. A better camping place can not be found.
Day8: 22 August, Pierik - Kukkesvagge, 17 km
A big bang wake us in the middle of the night. The sound bounce between the mountains. Fading away. Erosion has taken one more small piece of rock from Pierikvaratj. Many million years from now, will these mountains no longer exist. Perhaps new ones has been created. Will there be any human beings lying in a tent and listen to a falling piece of rock? When we wake up in the morning do Pierikvaratj look the same. We make our breakfast and at the same time looking towards Vuoinestjåkkå. From this side is it steep, but it is easy to walk up on it the slope from Kukkesvagge. This is our plan for today, unless the weather decide something else. We head for Vuoinesvaratj, the small hill before Kukkesvagge. From Vuoinesvaratj is Lietjit-jaure seen, the mountains on the other side creates curtains in the hazy atmosphere. In Kukkesvagge is it rain curtains. Vuoinestjåkkå has to wait. We enter Kukkesvagge and the rain.
This is the northern border of Sarek, a broad and open valley. The Sarek mountains have gentle slope on the south side, in the north is the steep but less alpine Skanatjåkkå dimly seen. We choose to walk fairly high up on the slope of the Sarek mountains. We can now only guess that the mountains are there, hidden behind clouds as they are. One must cross several brooks from the glaciers, some can be problematic to cross. Today is Lulep Sarekjåkåtj ill-tempered. We find a place where large stones almost form a bridge. Here we easily jump to the opposite side. Wind, rain, and cold. The coffee break at Sarekjauratj cheer up. A day like this do one look down. Slåtterblomman ("hay-making flower") tells us that it is time for hay-making. The yellow gullbräckan replace the sun. Litchens dress the stones. The day is ending, we put up our tent at a small brook. It clear up. Close to use, show the glacier Suottasjekna up. We didn't know we were that close to it. The clouds, mountains, ice, and sun paints a fantastic painting in front of us. A short snowfall makes the painting complete. That's made our day.
Day9: 23 August, Kukkesvagge - Sjnjuftjutis, 22 km
It has been a cold night, and there is not much water from the glacier that has started its journey back to the sea. The name of our brook from the glacier is Suottasjåkåtj. We walk on the slope down to, and with the view of, Suottasjaure in the north. From a distant position is the south part of the lake puddles. Behind the lake is the mountain Akka, today dressed with clouds. Our brook change size and name after the lake, Suottosjåkkå. It will change name once more to Sjnuftjutisjåkkå when it join Niakjåkåtj from Routesvagge. By then it has increased even more in size. It becomes more and more difficult to ford it. Our goal is the lake Sjuftjutisjauratj, then the north side of Suottasjåkkå is the only reasonable choise. We cross the jåkk while it still seems easy, right after the lake Suottasjaure, where one can walk on stones to the opposite side.
We walk up on the slope Vartotjåkkå where we get a magnificient view of the valley of Suottasjåkkå, Niak and Kisuris as the sidescenes in the south and west. We keep the height towards Sjnuftjutis. At the entrance to the valley at Sjnuftjutisjauratj, is east of the lake a track along the slope of Akka, that leads towards Padjelantaleden. This track is not marked on the map. The brooks that fall into the lake has created canyons, sometimes is it difficult to follow the track in the canyons. But in general are there no problems. The track lead downward, passing several terrace formations. After the last terrace, where the birch forest begin, do we put up the tent. We have dinner outside the tent, enjoying the sunset. We get a feeling that somebody is staring at us, we look behind us. An elk is standing ten meters away, among the trees on the other side of a brook. Staring at us. Shakes the head, as if it is thinking "stupid humans". It turns around and leave us.
Day10: 24 August, Sjnjuftjutis - Ritsem, 7 km
It is a few hours walk to Änonjalme, from where the boat across Akkajaure to Ritsem leaves in the afternoon. The boat is run by the touring club.We follow the track through the birch forest, passing a few small bogs. After an hour do the track connect to Padjelantaleden. One can hear the sound of Vuojatätno long before one see it. We have plenty of time, we have many breaks on the slope of the river. Several hikers have put up their tent here. A few wear hats with mosquito nets. But there are no mosquitos! Safety first? Another break on the bridge. The river travel fast ten meters below the bridge.
The track from the bridge to Änonjalme is partly stony and wet, it has rained during the night. We pass the Akka hut, nobody at home. Arrive at Änonjalme several hours before the boat leave. A dog welcomes us. Änonjalme is during the summer inhabited by the lapps. On the hillside is a small cafe, which is closed today. We spend the time eating our remaining raisins. The stomach gets upset, we rush to the outdoor toilett. Akkajaure is a reservoir for a water power plant. Due to the varying water level do nothing grow on the shore. The rapids of Stora Sjöfallet was one main reason for making the area around the rapids a national parc. The rapids are now gone.
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