Sarek 1991
Kvikkjokk - Tarraure - Såmmarlappa - Tarraluoppal - Låptåvakkjaure - Kåbrekjauratj - Puoites - Ruonasvagge - Vallevagge - Vallevare - Kvikkjokk, 82 km

Day1: 17-19 August, Hemmet - Kvikkjokk, - km

Day 1: 17-19 August, Home - Kvikkjokk

After have slept bad on the nighttrain, do I get off the train in Västerås. The time is 6.35 in the morning. My friend meets me. We spend the day with sightseeing. Walking along the river Svartån, attending an organ consert in the cathedral. We buy the food we need for our tour in Sarek. In the evening do we pack everything for the hike.

We take the afternoon train to Stockholm. While waiting for the night train to the north, do we sit at "Hyllan" with coffee and study the people that hurry to and from the trains. Our train is invaded by soldiers in the swedish army. They are on their way to their duty at K4 in Arvidsjaur. They are hungry and fill up the restaurant wagon. We buy food in the restaurant but eat it at our places in the sleeping wagon.

At six is it reveille, the army leave the train in Boden. Our sleeping wagon is removed, and we have to move to another wagon. Without the soldiers is train almost empty. There is plenty of space in the restaurant at breakfast. At ten do we leave the train in Murjek, where the bus to Jokkmokk leave in connection with the train. It takes one hour to Jokkmokk. The bus to Kvikkjokk leave at five. We have time to visit Ajtte mountain museum, where we also eat lunch. We walk to the home of the photographer Edvin Nilsson, and enjoy his exhibtion with fantastic photos from Sarek. We have coffee at the café Citykonditoriet. On the bus are a few old "muddle-headed" ladies. Fjällen can be enjoyed by everybody. At eight are we at the mountain station in Kvikkjokk. Before going to bed do we walk to the place where the boat to Padjelantaleden leave. It will leave 9.30 in the morning. We have a nice chat with the driver, an old man who seems to have lived here forever.

Day2: 20 August, Kvikkjokk - Tarraure, 15 km

We spent the night at the mountain station. The weather yestardy was to bad to take the boat to the other side of the lake, where Padjelantaleden starts it's way up into Tarradalen. Today is it warm and rather good weather. The small outboard boat takes us across the lake to Bobäcken, the starting point of Padjelantaleden. The boat driver is eighty years, but still going strong. There is no wind, the water is calm. We enjoy the tour. The track is easy to follow, mainly through a birch forest. Here and there are open grassy areas, the vegetation is luxuriant.We take lunch at the since long abandoned mountain farm Njunjes. The shore of Tarraure is a perfect camping ground, and invites for a bath. A few showers pass during the evening. It clears up, and we admire the sunset.

Day3: 21 August, Tarraure - Såmmarlappa, 15 km

Sunshine, 20 degrees. The track stays in the birch forest, and the luxuriant vegetation. The Tarrakaise mountains are barely seen through it. We take it easy, just before lunch do we arrive at the Tarrakaisehut. Stay a while and talks with a few germans, else do we not meet many during the day. It is an easy day, good track, beautiful scenery, and almost no height difference. The negative part are the mosquitos, who has come back to life in the warm and calm weather. Where the track meet the river a few kilometers before the Såmmarlappa hut, is it time to halt for the day. The water temperature is acceptable, the bath is refreshing after a warm day.

Day4: 22 August, Såmmarlappa - Tarraluoppal, 16 km

A warm day again. We stay a long time talking with the hostess of the Såmmarlappahut. There is a small shop, we buy chocolate. My friend, who tries to stop smoking, buy cigarettes!! The track continues through the forest, but the bare mountain region is approaching. We meet two women, they find it strange that we wear shorts only. Everybody we have met so far have been  dressed as if it is very cold. We find that strange. Must be very warm with all that clothes. Finally do the track leave the forest behind. The clouds cover the sky, the rain starts to fall. It is raining the whole evening. This is the last day in Tarradalen, a friendly and beautiful valley.

Day5: 23 August, Tarraluoppal - Låptåvakkjaure, 6 km

Ready to leave at nine thirty. We abandon Tarravalley and the Padjelantatrack. Walking outside a track is the liberty. The track continue to the north west towards Staloluokta. We take east, up the grass dressed slope towards Låptåvakkjaure. To start with along Karranisjåkåtj. Behind us is a far reaching view. Cloudy, a comfortable wind keep the mosquitos away. Areas with stones takes over the ground when reaching higher altitudes. The stones have been prepared and laid out to make a flat road. When we start the descend to the lake, is the sun shining on us. On a grassy plateau, with the view of the lake in front of us, do we have a nap. The tent is placed at the north end of the lake, in a grassy space. The shore is a sandy beach. The weather, beach and lake, invites to have a swim. Twelve degrees in the water. Refreshing. The wind disappear, no ripples in the water. The mounatins are mirrored. A beautiful sunset. Tomorrow will we walk up on Tsatsa (1852) in the north. We count the number of remaining visible mosquito bites. About fifty each. Perhaps all the well dressed we have met preferred the heat instaed of the mosquitos.

Day6: 24 August, Låptåvakkjaure - Kåbrekjauratj, 6 km

Seven o'clock. It is dusk in the tent. The first thing that one want to konw every morning, how is the weather? It has changed dramatically during the night, dark clouds cover the sky. That explains the darkness in the tent. The route up to Tsatsa is hidden in clouds. We take breakfast, gruel and dark bred. Same weather. We want to see Njåtjosvagge from above. A short study of the map shows that there is small hill, Kåbrek, which might be below the clouds. Decide to visit it. The north side of the lake Låptåvakkjaure is then the natural choise. Stony, but not that much that it is uncomfortable. Halfway of the lake do we meet our first reindeer. A vaja (the female) and her calf. They are mirrored in a small puddle. At the end of the lake do we take east, towards the lake Kåbrekjauratj. This part have large stony areas. One must be careful, the humid air make the stones wet and slippery. We reach the lake Kåbrekjauratj at half past one without mishappenings. Only the lower part of the hill Kåbrek is visible. A windy place. The tent is in place just in time before the rain starts to fall. Warm blueberry soup warm our frozen bodies. Nothing to do, but to wait. Time pass by. The dinner is fried tuna fish with garlic and onion. Served with pasta. Delicious. The clouds finally give up, the full moon appaer above Kåbrek.

Day7: 25 August, Kåbrekjauratj - Puoites, 8 km

Wake up several times during the night. The bed is not comfortable. We start the day at seven thirty. The sun shine, an almost clear and blue sky. Kåbrek, the small hill with the peak at 1167m, is waiting on us.It is an easy walk up, the height difference is only 150m. From the top is the view as good as expected. Njåtjosvagge with its lakes is clearly visible, small clouds around the mountain peaks make the view even better. In front of us is the plateau Luottolako, which we visited 1985. Today is the weather much better, than at that time. Further east is the mountains of Pårte clearly visible. Below is the river in Njåtjosvagge, it looks like a snake on its way towards east. We descend from hill, we choose walk on the north side of the lake. If we had we time, then it we could walk up on Tsatsa from here. Time is running. After lunch do we start our walk to the lake Puoites in the north end of Tarrekaise. First we change to shorts, the weather is beautiful. The part to Låptåvagge is rather stony. Tjuoltajåkkå, the outlet from Låptåvakkjaure and Kåbrekjauratj, seems easy to cross. But it is deep between the stones close to the opposite shore. My friend slip, and get the boots full of water. We take a break, he change socks, and let the boots to dry in the sun for a while. The sun and wind will dry the wet socks, hanging on the backpacking. The slope Tjuoltakårså is fantastic, completely flat to walk on. The brook is now already far below us. In the distance is Tarrekaise seen. Soon do also the sight of Tjuoltavagge appear. From Tjuoltakårså is it downhill, partly through low osier. We pass an area with nice ferns. We can now see Puoites. We follow the small brook from the lake, and reach it after another hour. The evening is cold, the sun creates long shadows. Disaster, my friend has no more sweets.

Day8: 26 August, Puoites - Ruonasvagge, 5 km

We sleep well,and wake up late. It is already eleven when we leave the lake Puoites. Clouds cover the sky, the temperature has dropped since yesterday. It is chilly and windy. We walk south, up the slope east of the hill Slittavare. We pass west of the small lake without a name. Not really a lake, more like a pond. We take our first break at the shore, where green moss grow. Yellow and white flowers decorate the moss. After the lake is it rather flat, the ground is covered with grass. The valley Slittavagge appears in the west. About twenty reindeers graze not far away. They study us, then they continue to eat. We are not considered to be unfriendly. Then it is uphill again, about one hundred meters to a height of slightly below thousand meters. We pass west of Ruonas, it is stony. The valley Ruonasvagge show up in front of us. We follow the small brook that leads down to the brook that makes its way down to Tjuoltajåkkå. A few stones make a road across it. We jump between the stones to the other side. Clouds start to block the entrance of Vallevagge. Our next step. The entrance is at 1100 meters, and the clouds quickly descend, obscuring the sight. Time to have lunch, perhaps the valley will reappear. We are not keen on walking in the clouds. Blueberry soup, biscuits, and a few sandwiches. The water in the brook is ice-cold and tastes good. It comes from the melting snow of Ruonaskåppå. The slope up to Vallevagge look stony, and it is probably not better in the valley. Might be difficult to find a comfortable place for the night up there. We know what we have, we stay. The afternoon is used to follow our brook further down, where it has cut itself into the rock. In the evening are the clouds so close, that one almost can catch them with our bare hands. There is a drizzle.

Day9: 27 August, Ruonasvagge - Vallevare, 13 km

The entrance of Vallevagge is still covered with clouds. Today is it a thin layer, above is the mountains peaks seen. We take direction with the compass, and enter the cloud. It is 300 meter up to the entrance at 1100 meters. The clouds surround us for 200 meters. Below are the clouds slowly dissolving, the remnants sail away in Tjuoltavagge. The slope is stony, more the higher up we get. We pass a small waterfall, above is a hint of the mountain Tjilaktjåkkå (1824m), the second highest peak in Tarrekaise. The mountains around Vallevagge is otherwise 1300-1500 meters high. If it had been good weather should we walk on Vallespiken, the hills on the east side of the valley. In the valley is there still snow, old and with a hard surface. It is easier to walk on the snow, than on all the stones. Finally we have to switch to the stones. The brook, Vallebäcken, from the valley disappear down in a canyon. One must choose the east side to reach Vallevare, the plateau at the exit of the valley. The west side lead down to Tarravalley. It is tiring to walk horisontally on a slope. It is down and up at the feeder streams of Vallebäcken. We fill our waterreservoir in one of them, because on the map do Vallevare look dry. We surprise some reindeers, they run away. One of them is white. The tent is placed at a small pond, without outlet. We do not dare to drink the water. There are cloudberries in our garden. We eat them as dessert.

Day10: 28 August, Vallevare - Kvikkjokk, 10 km

Vall evare is flat, and dry. The good weather has returned, to late for us. This is the last day. In the distant north are the mountains Pårte clearly seen. Vallevare is like walking on the grass in a parc. Easy and comfortable. It takes not long before we reach Prinskullen, the system of lakes and rivers at Kvikkjokk fill the view. From here is it partly steep downhill, through a dense forest. Prinskullen is popular for excursions from Kvikkjokk, and there is a track through the forest down to the river. At noon are we at Kvikkjokk, but on the wrong side of the river. The river is impossible to ford, the rapids are strong. We take some time to look at them. There are also some remnants of houses from the old days. Now we have to get somebody to fetch us with the boat. We have made an agreement with the man that maintain the boat traffic, that he should look for us in the afternoon today. We shout and wave, make a homemade flag in a tree, a red towel. No reaction, perhaps is he eating lunch. We do the same, on the shore of the river. After an hour is a small boat approaching, we have been seen. A shower, a good dinner in the restaurant at the mountain station. Back to normal life. In the evening is a slide show about the surroundings. Why do we never see all those animals? One need time, be quite, search and wait.

© Mjörnmark,