Ritsem/Änonjalme - Sjnuftjutisjåkkå - Ruotesvagge - Sierkavagge - Låddejåkkå - Pårka - Stuor Titer - Staloluokta
Day1: 28 June, Home - Ritsem, - km
Woke up at 5 after only two hours of sleep, the cat was unhappy about me being away. My friend fetched me at 5.45, well in time for the plane to Arlanda at 6.55. The breakfast on the plane was lousy From Arlanda did we fly vi Umeå to Gällivare. From Gällivare airport did we take the bus to the railway station, where the bus to Ritsem leave. The lunch at Domus, renskav, was not as good as it can be. In Ritsem is there no connection to Änonjalme, the last boat was at 16, the bus arrived at 17.15. Strange. We make a simple meal. I go to bed at eight, I have had five hours of sleep the last 48 hours.
Day2: 29 June, Ritsem/Änonjalme - Sjnuftjutisjåkkå, 16 km
We had planned to go from Suorva to Staloluokta. Then one must pass the bridge at Smaila. This year is the spring very late, and there is still much snow. The bridge has not been put in place yet, we decided to continue to Ritsem and take the boat to Änonjalme instead. Early morning to get the boat across Akkajaure. This first day is as usual a transportation, the Padjelanta track into Sarek. We follow the track until the bridges at the border. Most of the day is it cloudy and a drizzle. The track is through a mountain birch forest, the leaves are not yet full-blown. The music from Voujatätno can be heard far away. At the wet places are wooden planks laid out, but they are not always well maintained. At some places are the small bridges across the brooks in bad shape.
After the first bridge at the border is a visible track along Sjnuftjutisjåkkå towards Routesvagge. Here are the trees higher, but soon after entering Sarek do we reach the tree free region. It may be a good year for cloud berries, many flowers. Halfway towards Routesvagge, beneath Kisuris, at the shore of Sjnuftjutisjåkkå are many good places for a tent. The area is wide open with Kisuris at south, Akka in north, and to the east is Niak hidden in clouds.
Day3: 30 June, Sjnuftjutisjåkkå - Ruotesvagge, 9 km
Wake up at seven. It is clody, the rain has been falling the whole night, it takes a break during the morning. We follow the barely visible track for a while. Due to the rain and melting snow are the brooks full of water. It is easier to walk higher up on the slope of Kisuris, where snow still covers the brooks. Instead do we have to fight the osier.
The rain starts to fall again. A few hours later do we reach Niakjåkkå, at the place where the brook from Kisuris join it. It is windy, cold, and raining. Our rain suits have seen better days, after several hours of rain do they start to leak. We put up the tent with a hill as a shelter aginst the wind. Along the roaring jåkk is lot's of snow. Despite the weather is it a beautiful place. From our hill can one to the south see into the U-shaped Routesvagge, in the distance is the glacier Routesjekna. On the opposite side of Niakjåkkå are the cloads halfdown Niak.
Day4: 1 July, Ruotesvagge - Sierkavagge, 13 km
It continue to rain the whole night, it cease early in the morning. Cloudy and cold day, four degrees. It is beautiful with all that snow, from the slope towards Sierkavagge is a magnificient view of Routesvagge. It seems as it filled with snow, we decide to give up the idea of walking trough the valley. We have not much time to fight snow and water, especially not if it continue to rain. Instead do we walk into Sierkavagge.
Sierkavagge is an open valley, gentle slopes in the south up to Låutak (ca 1300m), and with Kisuris(1664m) in the north. It seems easy to walk up on it from this side. Easy to walk in the valley, the snow cover the brooks, which makes it even easier. At a few places is the snow more than a meter deep, as seen where the water has cut down into it. Here we have to take long detours. We follow Sierkajåkkå in the middle of the valley. Further west is less and less snow, the jåkk becomes wider and wider.
Day5: 2 July, Sierkavagge - Låddejåkkå, 12 km
We wake up in fog. This is one more cold day, 5 degrees. The fog slowly dissolves, and at ten is it clear enough to start the day. In front of us is a grassy flat land. The small hill Luoto (1187) to the west is barely visible. The main obstacle is Vartojåkåtj, but it is not a serious one, it is easy to cross at the border of Padjelanta. We keep the height 800 meters towards the lake Rapukjauratj (814). The fog has completely disappeared, there remains clouds high up. Not high enough to allow the perfect view into Koupervagge, but it makes us to take a long lunch.
Large areas are covered with melting snow, which makes it wet. When approaching the lake does it get stony. The lake is still mostly frozen. Suddenly is fog attacking from the west, like a big rolling stone. After a few minutes is the visibility less than twenty meters, and a heavy rain falls. No descent place on which to put up the tent. We let the compass guide us west towards the valley of Låddejåkkå. Some hours later are we below the clouds on the north side of the valley. The slope is covered with small osiers and dwarf birches. In the middle of the valley can we distinguish the river. In an open place in the osier and at a brook, do we prepare for the night. The rain keeps falling. Sweet home.
Day6: 3 July, Låddejåkkå - Pårka, 12 km
Partly clouded, and still cold. To avoid the osier do we walk high up on the slope. Here and there are a few birches. Beautifull view of the valley with the Mattåive (1467) mountain on the other side. We eat our lunch in the Låddejåkkå hut at the Padjelanta track. From here do we follow the track to Staloluokta. Discuss the weather yesterday with the elderly host and hostess of the hut. They had seen the clouds coming, it was like a moving wall.
We stay a short moment at the bridge over Låddejåkkå to look at the cataracts in the river. The track continue along a small snow covered brook up to Pårka (ca 900m). We encounter a few showers, at higher altitude with snow. After Pårka is it downhill. It clears up, and we can see the outlet of Mielätno into Virihaure. Enough for today. We are waiting for the midnight sun. It miidnight is the sky clear, the mountains on the other side of Virihaure is coloured in red. It is cold, around zero degrees.
Day7: 4 July, Pårka - Stuor-Titer, 9 km
The sun is shining, no cloud in the sky. Warm. Good opportunity to wash the hair. Shorts is a must today. The weather has changed dramatically, 20 degrees during the day. We proceed slowly, the view requires many breaks. The streams of Mielätno are studied. Almost to close, made a half unintentioned visit in them. Slippery rocks.
All day do we have Virihaure in front of our eyes. In the other direction is the mountain Alatjåkkå (1572). Probably a good view of Sarek from it. Decided to visit them next year. A pair of buzzards watch as suspicously, while we put up the tent on the slope of Stuor-Titer. The warm weather has brought the mosquitos alive.
Day8: 5 July, Stuor-Titer - Staloluokta, 6 km
A beautiful and warm day. We take a tour up on Stuor-Titer (1036). Strange polished rocks, interspaced with small waterfilled gorges. On the top a 360 degrees view, Sarek to the east. To the south Kierkevare (1571). The buzzards guides as back to our tent. The track towards Staloluokta is easy. The sun shines, inviting to a long sunbath break on the shore of the deep blue Virihaure. While lying there, in shorts, is a company passing. Dressed as if it is around zero degrees
The birches start to become green, but they have not yet got their final look. Finally arriving at Staloluokta. It is hot, the blood is boiling. A swim in the lake at 'Staloluokta beach' cools down. The hostess at the gives us the 'chambre d'amour' (lover's room), the only room for two which has a gas stove. But why? My companion and I are of the same sex. We use the gas stove to prepare a pair of chars, sold by the lapps. Tastes good.
Day9: 6 July, Staloluokta - Ritsem, - km
A lazy day. Waiting for the helicopter back to Ritsem. Spend the time to look around in Staloluokta with surroundings. There is the helicopter airport, during the summer with daily regular flights to Ritsem and Kvickjokk. Seaplanes use the lake. Food can be bought in a small shop, fresh fish from the lapps. A camping area and the hut for staying over night. Couples can get the "chambre d'amour" in the hut. The beach at Virihaure, as well as in Luoppal. For the religious is there a church. We have a look inside it. During lunch do we talk with a few persons that had walked Kvikkjokk-Säkok-Njåtjosvagge. They had problems with all the snow.
The helicopter flight to Ritsem is worth the money, at least this year. Clear sky, all the mountains are clearly seen. We pass Stuor-Titer, we clearly see the polished rocks. Mielätno and Låddejåkkå look like snakes in the landscape. No clouds on the sky, first time we see Sarek in such a good weather. The lone Akka stand there in it's beauty. After 30 minutes are we at Ritsem, it took us many days to walk.
© Mjörnmark, http://www.mior.se/