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Sarek 1996
Saltoluokta - Kuotekvagge - Sitoätno - Kukkesvagge - Kassalako
- Sjnuftjutis - Änonjalme, 96 km
Day1: 12 July, Saltoluokta - Muorkatjauratjah, 13 km
My friend fetch me at eight in the morning. I say goodbye to the cat and the cat sitters, a young couple that will live in my flat while I'm away. At the Sturup airport do they discover our fuel for the cooking equipment. Not allowed to bring it on the plane! They say and keep it. Hopefully can we buy new when we arrive at Saltoluokta, the starting point of this year hike. Our plane leave at 9.30 from Sturup and we land safely on Arlanda at 12.30. We have time to eat lunch at Arlanda before the flight at 14.30 to Gällivare. The flight time is two hours to Gällivare. A bus takes us directly from the airport at Gällivare to Kebnats, the boat connection to the Saltoluokta mountain station. We are lucky, the last litre of fuel in the small shop at the mountain station is ours. The mountain station is located in a birch forest some hundred meters from where the boat land. The trail Kungsleden leads from here towards Aktse and Kvikkjokk. At ten past five in the afternoon can we start, and we follow the trail. It takes us through the birch forest up to the bare mountain region above the tree line. The mosquitos like our company in the good weather.
On this part of Kungsleden is it easy to walk, though it is uphill during the first part after the mountain station. The track is very broad and the landscape is after the uphill rather flat. The hills around us are low, and not very impressive. After a few kilometers do the track reach the broad valley Autsutjvagge, the jåkk is in a small gorge and is surrounded with osiers. After 10 km do we abandon the track and walk down into the osier, the destination today is the lake Muorkatjauratjah. While we walk do we collect dead wood for making a fire, but we give up the idea. Seems stupid walking and carrying around dead wood. At a small brook from the hills in the west and not far from Muorkatjauratjah do we find our camping site. We have this year a new tent, interesting to see how we manage to rise it. My friend has tried it, but I have not seen it before. Of course is it not a problem, it is easy to handle at least in the good weather as it is tonight. We frie and eat sausages, in the meantime do the mosquitos eat us. It is almost midnight when can come to rest, it is definitely sleeping time after a long day.
Day2: 13 July, Muorkatjauratjah - Sitoätno, 18 km
Good morning to the world. We say good morning since the morning present us with beautiful weather. This weather stay with us all day, the same do a minor cloud with mosquitos. Our plan for the day is to walk on the hills north of Sitojaure, from wher we look forward to see the view over the lake. First we walk up the hillside to 1200 meters, a difference of 400 meters, north of the hill Tjaraknjunnje (1218). After the first steeper part is it rather flat. It is perfect to walk here. Then we see it, the view. It is far reaching in all directions, towards west or the mountains Skårki, towards east are gentle hills. In the middle is the lake Sitojaure surrounded with forests and marshes. We can watch it for several hours, while we continue. We walk on slope of the hill 1192. At Kårsåkaska is a brook in a rather deep gorge, filled with water. Nature has made a bridge of snow, probably specially made for us. The slopes of the "gorge" feels steep, and.the backpacking feels heavy. When get up on the other side of the gorge is the view disappearing from our sight.
As we are leaving the view, do we get into a more stony area as we approach Kuotekvagge. It is even more stony around the lake Kuotekjaure, though it is still an easy terrain where we walk north of the lake. We continue on the slope up towards the watershed of Kuotekvagge northwest of the lake, then passing the almost empty brook Vuovresjåkåtj. We stop at another small brook, with Sitoätno in front of us. At a distance can we see the mountains in Kukkesvagge. Strange, they do not hide behind any clouds. That is otherwise the normal condition when we see it. They have previous years been very shy when we have visited them. This looks promising for tomorrow, our main goal this year is to walk Kukkesvagge in sunshine. But now we rise our tent, it has been a long day and we feel tired.
Day3: 14 July, Sitoätno - Lulep Nientojåkåtj, 9 km
We wake up at seven. The weather has changed dramatically during the night. We can hear how it is raining. The mountains are hiding behind cloud curtains. Now we recognise them. We find it best to stay in the tent until the rain stops falling. At noon do we consider it reasonable safe to start. The descent to Sitoätno is through osier, between large stones, many stony areas, groups of birches, and an irritating drizzle. We reach safely Kuortosluoppal. The wind has during walk started to blow and is strong. It comes from the front, and it is not comfortable at all. Though Kuortesluoppal is a small lake, does the wind make rather large waves on the lake. We follow the lake, when we turn towards Kukkesvagge do the ground become easier to walk on.
When we reach Lulep Nientojåkåtj is it storming, and it is somewhat difficult to stand upright. In addition is it after the rain during the night much water in the brook. We are not eager to ford right now, it is half past five and we hope for less water in the morning. Instead do we search for a camping site in a good shelter against the wind. Out first choise is a bad one, the wind is too strong and we are afraid it will break the tent. After a short search do we find another place surrounded with large stones, and a wall against the wind. It is a perfect place, we put some stones to support the tent and we feel safe. The personal care is today rudimentary. The dinner do we make and eat in the tent.
Day4: 15 July, Lulep Nientojåkåtj - Tjeurajåkåtj, 14 km
Sleeping, awake, sleep, awake. The wind wake me several times during the night. The wind lull in the morning, but is still strong. It has stopped raining, the brook is easy to cross. We walk on the slope beneath Niento with a strong contrary wind. On the ground are stones scattered around. At the brook Alep Nientjåkåtj do we pass a minor area with low growing osier . The mountains are very shy today, since the clouds cover them almost completely. But occasionally do they during a few minutes lift the cloud curtain so that they can see where we go. We take lunch at the bridge over the river Kukkesvakkjåkkå. Here we find three hidden empty fuel bottles, and one pair of briefs. Those that hide the bottles must have been tired, plastic bottles are not that heavy. The briefs are more difficult to explain.
The river is here rather difficult to ford, and without the bridge would one have to walk further up in the valley to ford it. Without crossing the bridge do we enter Kukkesvagge, i.e. we walk on the north side. The idea is to get a good view of the peaks in the Sarek massif in the south. The north side is more like a smooth wall, and less alpine in its character. The clouds climb further down on the mountain sides, and there is a drizzle. The terrain is easy, there are a few places with swamp or stones. Some kilometers after the bridge is a large wetland around the river. We follow the border of it. As we pass the glacier Årjep Sarekjekna do the clouds open up, and they let us see more of the mountains. At Tjeurajåkåtj do we find a good camping site on a meadow. The mountains remove some moreof the curtain, Äpar is almost in sunshine. The day has been cold, as it clear up does it becomes colder.
Day5: 16 July, Tjeurajåkåtj - Suottasjaure, 17 km
We have a good sleep and a cold night, the temperature when we wake up is around zero degrees. We have a sleeping morning and get away late, the time is half past ten when we leave in variable cloudiness. We have been camping about a kilometer from Kukkesvakkjåkkå, and after a few kilometers walking do we walk down to the river. We follow it to the place where it leave the lake Tjeurajaure. The area at the lake is stony, we ford Kukkesvakkjåkkå where it is as broadest, which close to the lake Tjeurajaure. The bottom of the river is stony as well, and somewhat slippery. Fortunatetely is it not deeper than our boots, so it is anyway rather easy cross it. We continue up on the hills Lulep (1020m) and Alep (1048m) Kassavaratj. Bank of clouds, that approach from the west between Niak and Vartotjåkkå, fights with the sun. The sun is the winner and the clouds dissolve as they come out over Kassalako. Except for a short shower that passes over the lake Kassajaure and creates a rainbow which is visible during a few minutes. We pass a few reindeer carcasses. With the mountain Akka and the plateau Kassalako in front of us do we eat our lunch.
At Alep Kassavaratj do we turn north. Our intention is to cross Kassalako north of the lake Suottasjaure and continue through the valley between Akka and Vartotjåkkå. Kassalako is a very stony and flat land. Much of the stones are boulder stones. North of Suottasjaure is there almost no grass, but mainly these large stones. Suddenly, without any warning in advance, do the sun give up the fight with the clouds and it starts to rain. The stones becomes very slippery. Our original route do not look interesting any longer, because of the wet and slippery stones and a poor visibility. We decide to go south of Vartotjåkkå, and as soon as possible find a place for the tent. We change direction and pass between Suottasjaure and the lake 906, then over the small hill 930. We try to find an easy way between the stripes of large stones, which is not alwyas possible. Some of them do we have to cross, and we are happy when we can leave them safely. It is tiresome. The terrain get better and we look for a good camping site. At six thirty do the tent welcome us, placed on a comfortable grassy meadow with a small brook. Looking south do we see Niak, and in the east is Kukkesvagge with the wetland south of Suottasjaure near us. The restaurant serves corned beef, flavoured with garlic, and potato puree. The rain stops and we can wash ourselves in the brook.
Day6: 17 July, Suottasjaure - Sjnuftjutis, 17 km
We wake up to a day where the clouds are halfway down on Niak. During the day does it change to variable cloudiness, and with short showers of drizzle. With Niak in front of us do we on the slope of Vartotjåkkå descend to Suottasjåkkå. We can see into the small valley east of Niak, with the lake Niakrieppejauratj, and there seems still be much snow. Coming further down on the slope of Vartotjåkkå do Kisuris show up in west, and we have to say goodbye to the view of Suottasjaure in the east. The weather is now even more acceptable with a gentle wind. Suottasjåkkå is here 20 meter wide, and full of water. Here and there are minor places with snow, but in general do we walk on comfortable grassy meadows. Far away are a few persons trying to cross the river, they have some difficulties, but manage after some time. We walk down to the water, on the shore grows the largest tuft of Moss campion I have seen. It has due the erosion fallen down from the meadow a few meters up, and has found a new place to live. We leave the river in order to keep the height towards Sjnuftjutis. We pass a few areas with small osier and dwarf birch, it is still easy to walk. Backwards, in Ruotesvagge, does it seem to snow. This was later confirmed by persons that had been there. On us do the sun shine, we take a long pause at Rakkajåkkå, enjoying the sunshine. Thinking of those in the snowfall, though it is not heavily snowing.
At the entrance to the valley with the lake Sjnuftjutisjauratj is a track east of the lake on the slope of Akka, the track leads towards Padjelantaleden. One walk rather high up on the slope and far from the lake, at the lake grow osier which one then avoid. The brooks that fall into the lake has created ravines, so one have to walk down and up a few times. Sometimes is it difficult to follow the track in the ravines. We walk down and up a few extra times, since we loose the track and walk too far down on the slope. But in general are there no problems. This is a lake I like, both by name and view. North of the lake is an unobstructed view of Akkajaure. The track lead downward, passing an interesting terrace formation. After each terrace is a steep slope to the next. After the last terrace, and where the birch forest begin, is a a brook where we put up the tent at half past five. We get a very nice evening with sunshine and no mosquitos at all. On the mountain side of Akka do the sun and clouds create fascinating light effects with stripes of clouds, sunshine, and the mountain structure. Fascinating.
Day7: 18 July, Sjnuftjutis - Änonjalme/Ritsem, 8 km
The last day, we have had a good night of sleep. The morning offer variable cloudiness and no mosquitos. It's from here a few hours walk on a good track to Änonjalme, where the boat across Akkajaure to Ritsem leaves at four in the afternoon. We get away late, and leave at ten. We follow the track towards Padjelantaleden through a mountain birch forest, passing a few small bogs. After an hour do we and the track connect to Padjelantaleden. Ahead of us can we see Akkajaure, there are many new islands in the regulated lake, the level of water is very low. The track is very good and we are soon at the steep slope down to the bridge over the river Vuojatätno . As usual do we take a break at the bridge to admire the fierce stream, which do the best to supply water into the lake. After the bridge keeps a shower us company as we walk on the stony track to Änonjalme. Most of it is through a birch forest, interrupted by a small beautiful pond. In Änonjalme is a small cafe where one can eat newly smoked lavaret on glow bread, which is a type of thin flat unleavened bread. Recommended, we do this while waiting for the boat. One can also buy sami handicraft, I buy a few presents for the cat sitters at home. We have seen a few reindeer carcasses, the woman in the cafeteria tell us that it could be the result of a bear or wolverin. Who knows.
At four do the boat take us first to Vaisaluokta, and then to Ritsem. There is not much water in the lake, to get off the boat in Ritsem does it partly drive up on the shore. We must then climb down on a ladder, since the boat can not reach the landing stage. We walk on the road the few hundred meters from the harbour to the youth hostel, where we get our prebooked room. After a shower do we buy food from the fridge in the small shop. Tastes awful.
Day8: 19 July, Ritsem - Home, - km
The bus to Gällivare leave already at half past seven (too early!), we take a quick breakfast and pack for the jurney back home. The breakfast is rudimentary, therefore is the break after one hour at Stora Sjöfallet appreciated. We use the stop to have a second breakfast in the restaurant. At 10.50 are we in Gällivare. The flight to Arlanda is at 16.20, so we have some time to kill. It is a nice day and we stroll around having ice cream and doing some shopping, e.g. buying the strong beer Gällivare Stark. We eat lunch, renskav (sort of kebab with reindeer meat) at MD. At 15.30 do we take a taxi to the airport. There is another one and a half hour to kill at Arlanda before the plane to Sturup departs , the time do we spend drinking beer. At Sturup do we pay 175SEK for the parking. When I come home do the cat greet me.