http://vandra.mior.se/sarek/2001/?lang=en
Sarek 2001
Suorva - Vuosskelvagge - Guhkesvagge - Ruohtesvagge - Guohpervagge - Njierek -
Padjelantaleden - Änonjalme, 124 km
Day1: 21 August, Suorva - Jiertajavrre, 2 km
It is over midnight and I can not sleep. Something is missing. I look for the cat, who normally is sleeping at my knees at this time. But tonight she is out hunting. There is only one thing to do, I open the door and call for her. Soon she appears from nowhere in the darkness, and wonder what I want that is so important, that she has to interrupt the hunting. I tell her about my problem, and she suggest herself to come in, despite that it is a very good night for hunting. When I wake up at four has she left. I hate these early mornings. I put the luggage in my car, and drive the thirty kilometers to Sturup airport. I leave the car at the long time parking place. My friend is waiting at the gate, where the plane for Stockholm leave at six fifteen. In Stockholm do we change to the plane to Lapland airport, where we land at eleven. The airport is six kilometers outside Gällivare, and since there are no busses do one either have to walk or take a taxi. We call for a taxi. By misunderstanding do we manage to get two taxis. In Gällivare do leave our luggage at the taxi office close to the railway station, and walk around in the village.
Since one may not bring fuel for the kitchen on the airplanes, is the first task to find a place where one can buy it. We find it at the paint dealer in the corner of Lasarettsgatan and Storgatan. On Storgatan is a chinese restaurant, where we have lunch. We walk slowly back to the railway station, where we wait for the bus, which leave from a bus stop in front of the railway station. While we wait, do a few workers appear a few minutes before the bus is to come three thirty, and they remove the bus stop! After som investigation do we find out that busses now leave from a new place hundred meters west of the railway station. We put our things together and walk there, and manage to be there in time. At quarter to six do we walk off the bus at Suorva, welcomed by a drizzle. At Suorva is a hydro power station, and one follow the road on the dam to the other side. This was once a great place, the need for power changed that. On the way do we pass a newly built wind power station. The local same people want to build more. Why not, things can not be more disturbing than it is. We reach the other side, pass the the reindeer fences in the birch forest, and follow the gravel road as far as possible along the lake, saerching for a suitable tenting site. It is getting late. Where the brooks, from the hills above us, show up in the birch forest do we find a suitable place. A few mosquitos make us company during our evening meal, while the darkness settle.
Day2: 22 August, Jiertajavrre - Vuosskeljavrre, 10 km
It rains during the night, but when we wake up at seven is it cloudy and no rain. I make a short excursion in the forest to find some flowers to take a photo of, but without any success. We put our things together and walk back to the reindeer fence, where the track up through the forest to the bare mountain region start. The track seems more visible to us, than the last time walked here. Here and there do the water use the track as a brook, which makes it rather wet. There are recently made small bridges of ribbons over the brooks. The reindeer farmes use small mopeds, we assume the bridges are for them. We struggle our way uphill. At a small marsh do the track fade away, we choose to walk straight across it. Not a very wise decision, it gets deep, and we have to go back. But too late, my friend get stuck and fall when he tries to turn around. With some effort do we get him back up, but drenched. The sun has fortunately started to shine, and it is warm. He will soon be dry again. We now see that the track makes a detour around the marsh. In front of us, along the view of the track, is the pyramid shaped and lone peak Slugga (1279). Behind us is the view of the lake from where we came sometimes be seen from openings in the birch forest. As we ascend do the birch forest become more and more sparse.
Just before where the track leaves the forest do it definitely fade away when reaching the bare mountain region, here do we abandon it and walk through the remaining thin stripe of trees, up to slope towards the valley Vuosskelvagge. One must pass a few stripes of boulder stones, else is it mainly moores. We get a good view towards east, where the lake Bietsavrre is seen. Further up does it get more stone, but it is still very easy to walk here. We walk up on the hill without name, marked with 1016 on the map. From the hill is it almost a 360 degree view. In the south and north consists the view of mountains, with Skanatjåhkkå (1767) as the highest peak in the south. In front of Skanatjåhkkå is the vertical wall of Gäbnasjgåhpe. Beneath are a few small lakes. In the north is it Hallji (1354) that dominates, here as well are a few small lakes. In the front of us, in our direction towards west, are the main lakes, with Vuosskeljavrre as the closest one. Behind the lakes is Unna Atjek (1225), and further away can we see Ahkka. We descend towards the lake Vuosskeljavrre, looking for a suitable tenting site. The terrain has become even more stony, and since we like comfortable tenting sites without stones, is it not easy to find one with our requirements. At the eastern end of the lake is a brook entering it, and there is gravel beach on which others seems to have had their lodging. To us does it seem to be too exposed to water and wind, instead do we choose a somewhat more protected terrace formation upstream. Not a very large place, but grassy and with no stones, and large enough for the tent. The wind is absent, the surface of the lake is glassy. The landscape is admiring it's own beauty. We disturb the mirror image by taking a bath.
Day3: 23 August, Vuosskeljavrre - Lulep Gassavarasj, 15 km
A comfortable tenting site has given a night with good sleep. Looking out from the tent shows that the sun show up now and then between the clouds. Most of the clouds are in the direction of Ahkka in the west, which is also our direction today. At nine thirty do we cross the small brook and walk along the southern shore of the lake. We have a cold wind against us. It is rather stony, here and there are stripes of boulder stones, stretching from far up on the slope above us and down to the lake. We have gained height, since our aim is to enter the small valley before the peaks Alep Skalariehppe (1245) and Tjårok (1215). It looks easier to walk along the lake, but things look smaller at distance and this may fool the eye. The stripes with large stones become more abundant, as we approach the small valley. We do not complain too much, it is anyway rather easy to walk on the stones. It could be slippery if they are wet. When we say this do a shower appear without any notice. Fortunately do it pass at high speed, and is too short in time for us to put on the rain suit. The stones are almost dry when the shower has passed. From where we stand do we have a good view of the lakes Atjek down in Vuosskelvagge. Most of the ground is covered with stones, mostly standalone so one can easily walk around them. Not far from the brook that come down from the mountains in the east, is a tent placed on a green spot. A person is standing outside, we wave at each other. The brook itself run in a bed of stones, and join further down the brook from the small lake 1074. South of the lake is it grassy but wet. We cross the wet area before we have our lunch.
Strengthened by the lunch do we struggle up the slope to the saddle point between Tjårok and Tjievratjåhkkå (1423), and the small plateau that follow. Here one walk on a heath, with the view towards the eastern part of Gassalahko and with the lake 1040, seen in the hole between Tjårok and Tjievravarasj (1245). In the far distance is Ahkkajavrre barely visible. The last part up to the point between Tjievravarasj and 1274, do one climb on large stones, placed as a staircase. At the highest point are two small ponds. We can also see to the other side of Guhkesvagge where the glacier Suottasjiegna shine white. On the other side of the ponds pass the persons in the tent we saw earlier. We take a break to study the view. Gassalahko and Ahkka build up the view in the northwest. The slope down to Oarjep Tjevrajavrre offer no obstacles, mainly nice meadows. There are a few stony places, as well as areas covered with dwarf birch. We reach the lake, where we pass a marsh, before reaching the stony shores of the brook that leave the lake. We ford it where it is broadest at the flowing out. The bottom is stony, which makes it slippery. We pass without accidents, continue through a marsh, and pass a small lake. On the south slope of Lulep Gassavarasj are a few stripes of stones, we follow one of them down to a brook, which is deep and broad. As we follow it westward, does it become shallower and thinner. Almost at the origin of the brook, do we find our tenting site. We take the standard bath, and afterwards we can sit in the sunshine, having the dinner with the mountains of Sarektjåhkkå with cloudless peaks, and white glaciers in front of us.
Day4: 24 August, Lulep Gassavarasj - Ruohtesvagge (Nijak), 16 km
We wake up to one of those rare days when the sun shine from a clear sky, and there is no sign of clouds around the peaks of Sarektjåhkkå and Ahkka. A morning to sit down, be lazy, and enjoy it all for a short moment. At the end we are ready to start the day, and we do that by following our brook to its origin in a marsh. This we walk straight across, to a more dryer part. We follow the slope of Gassavarasj, until we see the reinder farmer cabin. In the south is a huge plain, probably a large delta of the brook Suottasjågåsj when the snow melts in spring time. Now it is flat, dry and comfortable to walk on. We cross it, and walk up the grassy slope on the other side towards the glacier Suottasjjiegna, with the aim to gain some height. We have not yet decided if we are lazy or not. If we are not lazy, then we will walk the small valley before Nijak (1922), else we walk around the mountan. It turns out that Suottasjågåsj is an obstacle. It is fierce, and do not invite to be forded. We decide to be lazy and walk down along the brook to the plain again, where the brook spread into several arms. Here it is much more friendly, and is easily forded. The steep Nijak is watching us, as we head for the saddle point on the small hill Suottasjvaratja. From here is the view of Gassalahko, with its many small lakes, far reaching. A good place to have lunch at.
We get even more lazy in the sunshine, and decide to walk around Nijak, and not in the small valley before it. We are so lazy that we take a nap, and after that a photo excursion. Time is passing, and we have to continue. Despite the late time in the summer, the automn is arriving, do we see many flowers while we walk on the meadows: Alpine bistort, buttercops, and "fjällfibbla" are common. At the brook from the small glacier grow Alpine cat's tail. The white bearded Scheuchzer's Cottongrass cover the ground as it was a snow drift. All over the slope beneath Nijak are traces of lemmings. Small roads in the grass run here and there, crossing each other in a random pattern. The roads are heavily used, we almost step on the small cute creatures when they run in front of our feets. They shout angrily at us, keep out of our way! Excuse us we shout back, but then they have already dissappeared in a hole in the ground. We rise our heads in time to see Gisuris show up as the dominating mountain in front of us, towards northwest is the lowland of Sjnjuftjudis. On meadows do we pass Nijak and enter Rouhtesvagge. Gentle small ridges, with small brooks as veins in between, stretch further down in the valley. The west side appear behind the hills, with the arms of peaks put one after the other. The sun is travelling close to the horizon at the other end of Sierggavagge, creating long shadows. We make halt for the night on a flat and grassy place at a large stone, above two small lakes. It is now almost eight, and the sun disappear behind Gisuris. The slope of Låutak is painted red by the setting sun.Three gulls make noise at the lake. The cold creep into the valley. In the north is Ahkka guarding us, we can safely close the tent. At the canvas do an Alpine cat's tail drop off, the same do we.
Day5: 25 August, Ruohtesvagge (Nijak) - Skarja, 18 km
I sit on the rocks at the entrance to Guohpervagge, where Guohperjåhkå throw itself down to the wet flat land beneath the rocks. The stream roar. The flat land stretch towards and pass Skarja a few kilometers away. The sun has a few minutes ago disappeared behind the mountains in Guohpervagge behind me. The shadows has become long, and the sunrays run almost paralell with the slope of Oalgasj. It has been a long and interesting day, which started seven in the morning. The weather is always interesting when being out like this, though one has to accept it whatever it happens to be. Todays forecast is varying cloudiness, with high clouds, and no rain. The forecast was done by looking out from the tent beneath Nijak in Rouhtesvagge, which was the first thing done. All the peaks on both sides of the valley are clearly seen, it looks promising for the rest of the day. The valley is one of the easiest to walk, with large grassy areas. At the brook from Nijakvagge is a wide stony groove, telling that the jåhk can be violent, but today does it reside in the middle as a narrow brook. We continue towards the small hill Ruohtesvarasj (1004), with the flat top about 100 meter above the surroundings. East of it, where the brook from the lake Ruohtesjavrasj finds its way north, are marshes. These we avoid by before the hill walking down to brook , and cross it. Here we find the track that run though all of the valley. It pass between the hill and the lake. After the hill do the glacier Oarjep Ruohtesjiegna show up between Ruohtestjåhkkå (1664) and Gasskatjåhkkå (1759). We meet a lone young man, he do not say hello. We feel old.
We continue on the track, which spread out and vanish at the many brooks from the glacier. At this time of the year are the brooks not so difficult to cross, only one is wide and streaming. On the other side is it again a good track, moors and marshes succeed each other. The marshes are weared and muddy. We meet two older gentlemen, slowly proceeding in the opposite direction. We have still many years in front of us, we feel young. In the middle of the valley make Smajllajåhkå a deltaland, on the other side is the Sarek massif a contonuous wall. After the corner of Boajsatjåhkå do we have the Oalgasj massif in front of us. We meet two young men, rapidly proceeding in the opposite direction. We feel old. The track lead us down to the Smajllajåhkå, which has become streaming and fierce. Where Mihkajåhkå join Smajllajåhkå do we get a glimpse of the glacier Mihkajiegna, and behind it the peaks Stortoppen (2089), and Sydtoppen (2023). The weather is fantastic, sunshine and 18 degrees. Smajllajåhkå gain further strength from Mihkajåhkå, and fall violently down in the canyon at Skarja. This is where Rouhtesvagge meet the upper part of Rapadalen. Skarja is a central place in Sarek, due to the bridge over the canyon. Without the bridge would one get problems to cross. I have several times forgotten to take a photo of the bridge, now I do it. At the locked Mikkacabin is a solar cell driven emergancy phone. Many find their tenting site here, at the moment are we alone, but we look for a less popular place for our lodging. There is a good tenting site at the rapids of Guohperjåhkå a few kilometers away, which we have used before. Walking towards Guohpervagge is best done up on the slope, there is a sometimes visible track. Down in the valley is there a large wetland around the jåhk.. We soon loose the track, and get involved in stones and osier. From up here can we see the rapids, with Skårvatjåhkå (1881) as the sidescene. We fight our way down through osier, between and on stones, to the green flat area where Guohperjåhkå fall down to the wetland beneath. I sit on the rocks, with the setting sun behind me. Beneath the rapids is Guohperjåhkå winding through the landsacpe, now in shadow. Only the mountains around Pastavagge are illuminated.
Day6: 26 August, Skarja - Lulep LÃ¥vdakruvtasj (Guohpervagge), 16 km
It is dripping blood. The blood come from two small holes on the finger tip of my right middle finger, as if a snake or lemming has biten me. The skin on finger tip is red. I have not noticed anything, and can not remember any incident during the breakfast on the rocks. The best cleaning method is to let it drip for a while, and then let the clean fresh water in the brook wash it. After that procedure we are ready to meet the day. The sun is still with us, but thin high clouds warn for bad weather. Nothing to do about that, it is part of the life in Sarek. To begin with do we walk along the brook, then we meet an area with osier, which make us to choose a path higher up on the slope. It is like walking in a park, mainly on grassy meadows. We soon reach the entrance to Algavagge. We can not look into the valley, for that is the slope into it too high, but Ahkatjåhkå (1974) is looking down at us. We are looking down at some persons that ford the brook fram Algavagge. Once over they return back, and then they repeat the procedure.They must be out exercising fording a streaming brook. Looking up can we see that the sun is gone. A strong wind appear, fortunately from behind. My friend has a watch that can measure pressure and therefore a rough altitude. The pressure has not dropped yet, and it seems stable. We pass an almost dry brook surrounded of gravel, in which a beautiful Starry saxifrage grow. The brook from Sjielmajiegna is modest, and spread into many pieces, and finds it's way on a broad gravel bed. Otherwise do one walk on dry flat grassy meadows. We reach the highest point in the valley, the water shed.
This is the birth of Guohperjåhkå, which from here depart both towards east and west. There is a huge delta landscape in the valley, and the origin of this is the water shed glacier (Vattendelarglaciären) on the opposite side of the valley. A few kilometers further west is the peak Guohper (1686), where the valley become more narrow, and turn towards northwest. This means that we must walk closer to the jåhk, we even walk in dry parts of the jåhk, since this is easier. Though at one place is it too quicksand like, and we have to walk back again to avoid it. After Guohper is a very long stony area, stretching from the peak down to the jåhk. The stones are densely packed, it is a flat stone floor. The place is called Juovvabahke, "the place with large stones in the middle of the valley". The valley open up, and we now see the open and less alpine high land of Padjelanta. Njahke (1348) is the last outpost peak, before Njahke is the small valley Nasasvagge. Around Guohperjåhkå are many marshes, which one should avoid. We end up in a dead end, it is wet, and the many deep channels force us to walk further away from Guohperjåhkå. Now the water instead come from above, it starts to rain. At a small brook, not far from Lulep Låvdakruvtasj do we find a place for the night. Bluegrey, cold clouds are coming from the valley, dissolve, and gather together again at Luvddo (1187) in the west. We have a rudimentary wash in the brook. I have forgotten about my finger tip, but it has returned back to the normal pale colour. I have survived.
Day7: 27 August, Lulep LÃ¥vdakruvtasj (Guohpervagge) - Njierekjavrre, 13 km
I lie in the darkness and listen to the rain that hammer on the tent, the rain gain extra strength from the strong wind. The tent shake when the wind is breathing. This goes on for all night, in the the morning do the wind calm down, but the rain is stubborn. When looking out from the tent can one see the clouds playing far down on the slopes, Luvddo in the west is barely visible in the haze. When I fetch water for the breakfast, do I notice that our small brook has grown up to a fierce stream. I am exaggerating somehwat, but compared with yesterday is it a giant. We have breakfast. It still rains. We take a nap. It still rains. We read. It still rains. We take a nap. It still rains. We have lunch. It still rains. At two o'clock do we give up.and break our rule of not starting in rain, and put our things together and leave. It still rains. Our brook is now a roaring lion, and not the purring cat as it was when we came here yesterday. The clouds open for a short moment to let us see the mountain slopes, and then it close again. The brook Gasska Låvdakruvtásj spread out into several arms, of which one is fierce and deep. When passing here 1990 was it a friendly murmuring brook. Not so today. We do not feel for undressing in the rain, so we choose to tie a string around the rain trouseres and the boots, tight enogh to make it waterproof. Then we can struggle over Låvdakruvtasj where it join Guohperjåhkå.
Guohperjåhkå change name to Låvdakjåhkå, further downstream does it change name once more to Låddejåhkå, before it enter Vastenjavrre. Long before then have we abondened its company. Here where it change name to Låvdakjåhkå does it gracefully meander in the valley. We walk at the border of the marshes around the river, and we do unfortunately not see much of its grace. It still rains. The ground is wet, but else is it good to walk on. Due to the rain, is the camera protected in the rucksak, and not many photos are taken. We leave Låvdakjåhkå and the alpine Guohpervagge, and enter the flatter highland of Padjelanta. When we pass Låvdakjavrasj do the rain calm down, and Luvddo do now and then appear in front of us. Our hope is to find a tenting site at one of these lakes, but the ground is stony, covered with dwarf birches, and not flat enough for our taste. After the rain, there is still something in the air, are the stones slippery, and my friend get an unexpected closer look of the ground. We continue north, on a heath with Yellow saxifrage. We pass some tiny lakes, and walk into what look likes an ancient river bed. On the other side are two small lakes, without streaming water and tenting site. We walk up the slope at Skuollavaldda, and the we can see the lake Njierekjavrre, with Njierek (976) hidden in clouds behind it. Fog comes rolling in from the west, and block the view of the lake as well. The darkness start to descend and we give up for today at a brook, that further downstream make a halt in a small pond, before continuing to the lake. We hurry to wash and eat before it is too dark. We even get some time to relax and read our books. The clouds keep rolling in.
Day8: 28 August, Njierekjavrre - Padjelanta trail (Tsågahavrre), 12 km
Happy birthday to you, happy birthday to you, do I hear somebody sing. I wake up, expecting to get breakfast at my sleeping bag. Silence, nobody is there, and no breakfast is presented. The night is leaving and the day is just about to arrive. I look out over the desolete landscape. It is overcast, but the hills can look down on me. Down there is the lake Njierekjavrre blinking at me. Was it they that sang the song? I think so, and wave thank you to them all. The breakfast do I have to make myself, but not yet. It is too early in the morning, and I crawl back into the tent and the warm sleeping bag. My hiking fellow is asleep. Next time I wake up is it daylight. It is a privilege on the birthday to have a sleeping morning. Finally do the needs force us to get up. Up in the sky are cold blue clouds, the temperature is comfortbale eight degrees, and no wind. At eleven are we ready to leave, and walk in the direction of Njierekjavrre down in the valley. I am not sure if one should call this a valley, it is somewhere between valley and a plateau. The hills Luvddo and Njierek are the borders in the south and north. In the east is Gisuris the main view. Between Spietjau and Gisuris is the well known profile of Ahkka. Since it is late August is there not much snow on the peaks. We follow an almost invisible track on the slope from Luvddo down to the lake. The brook from Luvddo is surprisingly wide, but shallow. It is rather wet, with a few minor marshes. A kilometer wets of the lake is a more continous marsh, which we walk north of. At the border to the marsh are plenty of lemmings. Once again are we close to step on them. One get angry, standing there shouting loudly at us. Shows the teeths, scaring us enormously, before it disappear underground. Cute small creatures. Where the cairned "pseudo" Padjelanta trail cross our invisible track do we have lunch.
"Pseudo" trail since the "true" trail is along the lakes further west. In the west can we see the mountains on the other side of the lakes, but the lakes are still not visible. Clouds start to gather together at the mountains, driven there by the wind that has shown up. Raindrops start to fall, this is a shower local in space and time we say. The raindrops become very frequent, so we put on the rainsuits, and continue in companion with our local shower. It turns out that it will rain for the rest of the day. We reach the slope down to the proper Padjelanta trail. Down there are the river Vuojatädno and the lake Sallohavrre which is barely visible in the haze and fog. In good weather should it have been a wonderful view, further down is it also including Tsågahavrre. Many small brooks has come alive in the rain, the ground is wet, and covered by dwarf birches. We follow one of the main brooks down the slope, with the hope to find a tenting site. Hopeless, too much vegetation, dwarf birches and osier, and not flat enough. Suddenly we stand on the trail, staring at four reindeers that stare back at us. We continue down to the lake Tsågahavrre, but no luck here either. We continue on the trail to the next bridge and brook, where we spread out on each side of the brook and search for a place. On my side is wet and uncomfortable, I see my friend on a hill surrounded of birches, waving: Here! Acceptable, and the view of Tsågahvrre is nice. Now it is time for my birthday dinner, beef stew, i.e. cooked meat in a sauce with peppercorns and bay leaves. Served with potato puree. I have in addition brought two small plastic bottles with Remy Martin. We sip the cognac, and listen to the rain that falls on the tent. It feels good to be inside the tent. I put my wet shirt in the sleeping bag, with the hope that it will be dry tomorrow. My friend laughs loudly, he is reading about the adventures of don Quijotes.
Day9: 29 August, Padjelanta trail (Tsågahavrre) - Padjelanta trail (Brook from Ahkka), 16 km
Wake up! Wake up! Are you awake? What time is it? Midnight. What is it? It is already tomorrow that our plane leave Gällivare! No, no, it is the day after tomorrow, you must have had a dream. Let us look at the ticket in the daylight. The raindrops keep falling on our tent, which it is also do when we later wake up in daylight. The tickets say that our plane leave the day after tomorrow. We have plenty of time, and can relax and wait for the rain to give up. Which it does at ten thirty, and we walk away from our hill, through the small stripe of birches and osier to the trail. Here on notice even more that the automn is approaching, the ground is changing into all sorts of colours. Ahkka has put on an apron of clouds. At the hill (564), after a kilometer of walking, do we leave Tsågahavrre behind us, and instead do the view change to Vuojatädno, and its entrance into the lake Guvtjavrre. One more kilometer and we pass the summer same village at Guvtjavrre, nicely placed at the lake with Gasskatjåhkkå (1130) on the other side. Here one can get lodging and boat transport over the lake. After that do one walk up on a birch covered ridge, with a steep slope down to a brook. After the ridge is the trail continuing on an open plateau to the Kisuris cabin. At the entrance to the cabin is a tent hanging, it seems to have had some repairs. There is nobody around, and we continue. We are now in a sparse birch forest, Gisuris is showing its dark west side towards us. After a kilometer do one reach the bridge over Sjpietjavjåhkå, down to the river is a short steep slope. Between Sjpietjavjåhkå and Sjnjuvtjudisjåhkå is the three national park corner of Sarek, Padjelanta, and Stora Sjöfallet. Three large signs, one for each park, give information about the parks. Halfway on the bridge over Sjnjuvtjudisjåhkå do some sullen men enter the bridge from the other side. Rather irritating, since it is a narrow bridge, but we manage to meet.
Our lunch is enjoyed among the birches at the shore of the river. When we have had satisfied our hunger, do we walk up the steep slope and reach a terrace with a far reaching view towards north. Ahkkajavrre and Vuojatädno are visible, before we enter into a parklike sparce birch forest. The track goes up and down, interrupted by a few automn coloured marshes which are crossed on planks. Many years agao (1970s) were many trees killed by an insect, the white and black dead trunks are standing as gravestones as a memory. At a break are we passed by two young men at high speed. We feel old. When they take a break, do we pass them and increase our speed to keep them behind. We feel young. We vaguely remember that at the bridge over the brook from Sjnjuvtjudis is a tenting site with a fireplace. Should be a good place to spend the night. But when we arrive there is it already occupied by a large dog and its humans. We greet with the compulsary Hej Hej. At the next small bridge, over the brook from the glacier of Ahkka, are we out of the forest and we find a tenting site, of course with traces of other visitors.The western peaks of Ahkka (1734) and the nameless glacier keeps an eye on us. The valley between Ahkka and the hill Sjnjuvtjudis (979) give birth to low flying clouds that dissolve before reaching us. The sound of Vuojatädno can be heared, showing its presence without beeing seen. For the first time do I (to my knowledge) litter in the mountains, I drop my tooth brush in the brook. It rapidly sail away and disappear. I'm punished by an army of biting flies that attack me. I clean my teeths with what remains of the Remy Martin. I'm tired after the competition with the young men. I feel old. You shall not compete.
Day10: 30 August, Padjelanta trail (Brook from Ahkka) - Änonjalme, 6 km
Since last year do I have one of those new materials to sleep on, thermarest, i.e. the one that one blow up with air. Normally does it give a very good sleep, but not tonight. To much air in it made it too hard? I'm tired already when we walk back to the trail. We are not far from the river Vuojatädno, not yet visible, but the sound of it become louder and louder as we approach, and finally does it show up in front of our eyes. The river is as alwys impressive, we stand on the plateau looking down at it. It dominates the view from the south to the north where it throw out the water into Ahkkajavrre. The bridge is seen as a thin string stretched over the river. Down to the river is the track going through a birch forest, the last part is rather steep. As usual is it fascinating to watch the water beneath the bridge when walking on it. On the other side is a minor stream which one pass over on a wooden bridge. I do always try get a portrait of myself during a hiking tour, this is the choosen place this year, with the bridge and Ahkka as the background. The track continue uphill through the birch forest towards the Akka cabins. It is very stony and muddy. Further up is a marsh, normally without much water, where we use to take a break sitting on the rocks. This year are the rocks covered by the water.
At the two Akka cabins is a lone man walking from one cabin to the other, without saying Hej. Around the cabins have trees been cut down, and one have a free view of the lake Ahkkajavrre. It is from now on downhill to Änonjalme, and the track is in a better shape. At lunch do we arrive at the cafeteria in Änonjalme, a small wooden house, with a view towards where the boat to/from Ritsem arrive/leave. The hostess serve smoked char, with the special bread "glödkaka", and coffee with a cake. We pay 110 SEK for this. I buy small bags of reindeer leather as presents. We are told that the track to Vuojatädno will be "spångad", i.e. planks will be laid out at the stony and muddy places. More hikers arrive to the cafeteria, e.g. an austrian couple with three siberian huskies. The had planned to walk the Padjelanta trail, but since dogs are not allowed in the park did they have to return back at the Kisuris cabin. They will try further north instead. We walk down the landing-stage when boat appear on the lake. It takes us on an eighty minute sightseeing on the calm lake, passing Vaisaluokta on the way. There is more water in the regulated lake than we are used to. In Ritsem do we take the uphill shortcut through the forest, instead of the road, to the youth hostel. The reception has moved since our last visit, it is now in a separate house. We have to wait for a short time before the reception open. The youth hostel seems to be operated by the local people, and he is not yet used to the procedure. We get our room, a shower and a shave. Back to normal.
Day11: 31 August, Ritsem - Home, - km
Previous years was one always forced to be in a hurry in order to be in time for the bus, it left early if my memory is correct. This year does it leave 9.45, oceans of time. The breakfast consist of the food remnants from the hike, mixed with what we yesterday bought in the shop at the reception. In the kitchen is a half full fuel bottle, we prepare for the flight by emptying out our fuel into it. Somebody might get usage for it. We clean the room, say goodbye to the siberian huskies and their humans (who has slept in their tent), and wait for the bus. The three hours it take for the bus to reach Gällivare feel very long. The bus stop at every place, the landing stage, Vakkotavare, Suorva, Stora Sjöfallet, Kebnats, even at the road crossing to Gällivare and Jokkmokk. Leaving off and picking up people, the bus is rather full. The first thing to do in Gällivare is to book a taxi to the airport. Then food, once again do we honour the Chinese restaurant, a nice lunch with a conversation with our neighbours at the next table. The coffee do we take at the nearby Åhults cafeteria, studying the beautiful female ambulance driver and nurse that have a quick lunch in front of us. There is still some time left to spend, this we do at the museum in the former central school. It has of course an old classroom. There is also an art exhibtion, which will open tomorrow, but we ask friendly if we may enter since we are not here tomorrow. I like many of the paintings of the local artists, e.g. Lars Pirak. I have one of him at home. Time to walk to the taxi station.
The flight to Stockholm is as flights are, boring. The landing is the most interesting part of a flight, since it requires more of the pilot. We have one hour at Arlanda airport, boring as all airports are. The flight to Stockholm is as flights are, boring. It is dark when we pass over Skåne on the way to Sturup airport. The lights from houses and streets form interesting patterns down there. We land at Sturup in time. Now there is a problem, where did I park the car? I have completely forgotten it. I walk around at the parking place for ten minutes before finding it. Stupid of me. I drive home, carefully keeping the speed limit, one never know when an animal will cross the road at this time of the day. Others do not care, and pass me at high speed. My cat is luckily afraid of cars, but she is not at home when I open the door, which makes me a bit worried. But why should I worry? I wait for her to come in, but no cat. I call for her, but no cat appear from the darkness. Finally do I go to bed, but I can not sleep. I lie there listening for the sound from the cat door. The minutes pass by, slowly. Then suddenly, bang, the cat door slam. In comes the cat. So you are back, welcome, she say before going out in the kitchen to eat. Then she jump up in my bed, curl up at my knees, purr for a while, and fall asleep. The same do I.