Staloluokta - Bållávrjåhkå - Tjågnårisskajdde - Miellädno - Låddejåhkå - Vuojatädno - Njierek - Sjpietjavjåhkå - Änonjalme, 86 km
Prologue: , - , km25 March 2005
Day1: 14 August, Home - Gällivare, - km
I say goodbye to the cat. She looks worried, "hiking with your injury" she seems to say. My friend fetches me at eleven, and we drive to the airport. At the airport do one have to do everything oneself. One must check in with a machine, a luggage tag is thrown out which one has to fasten on the luggage and finally put the luggage on the band. I almost manage to destroy the luggage tag, once finally on the rucksack is it almost unreadable. When it disappear on the luggage trail do I pray that I will see it again. Shit! I forgot that I have to have a tag for my hiking stick as well. I have to ask a human for help. No boarding card, the finger print is scanned and stored and to be used as boarding card at the gate. My friend's finger print do not work, he has to show his ID-card instead.
SAS and Nordic Regional has no agreement about luggage transfer. We have to fetch the luggage at Arlanda and check it in again. New machine. I remember to ask for two tags. These I almost manage to destroy. I have to pray again. More security controls, soon is it impossible to fly. It is anyway not good for the environment. More and more people are anyway flying, the airplane to Arlanda was full, the airplane to Gällivare is full.
My prayer has been answered. The luggage arrived to the same place as me. In the morning did I call and ordered a taxi, when everybody else has left are we standing alone with no taxi. We have to order a new one. It costs 160 SEK for the transport to hotel Dundret near the railway station in Gällivare. The youth hostel, on "The other side", where we normally stay was fully booked. Instead did we book a room on Dundret. It is a small nice hotel, 600 SEK for two persons and breakfast. Not much more than the youth hostel. It is late (21.30) and we try to get something to eat. Everything is closed or closing. We end up at the fast food place near the railway station. The mosquitos have already found us. Seems promising.
Day2: 15 August, Gällivare - Bållávrjåhkå, 7 km
The breakfast consist of egg, herring, salmon, soured milk, ham, and so on. After have been eating too much do we go to "Öströms färg", now called Conforama, and fetch the methylated spirits to our kitchen that I yesterday asked them to put away for us. One may not bring the fuel on the airplane. Next to Öströms färg is a café, the last time had it the name Åhults café, now it is called "Nyfiket", i.e. eithe curious or the new café. It could mean any of it. I buy a baguette to have as lunch on the bus. We pack, checkout, have a nice chat with the host, and walk to the bus. Many has done the same, everybody do not get a place in the bus. Some of those that go to Kebnats have to take a taxi instead, to the same price as for the bus.
There are roadworks on the road to Ritsem. The road has been bad for many years. The road is bumpy, but not as bumpy it was before. We leave people in Kebnats, they wonder where the taxi is with the rest? At Suorva have one put up fences and gates. Have one prevented entrance to Sarek? This is an often used entry. (Comment: one gate is open for hikers.) It is probably security reasons. Everything must be locked nowadays. When I was a kid did one not lock in the country, and if one did then one put the key under the carpet outside the door: "Somebody may need to get in". We get off at the helicopter place at Ritsem.
The helicopter has first to fetch somebody, we have to wait for it. It takes some time since the pilot has to search for the person, since he is not at the agreed place. We get a nice flight to Staloluokta, from my place at the pilot do one have a good view: Låddejåhkå, Miellädno, Virihaure, Arasloukta, the know places pass by beneath us. After being on the ground again at Staloluokta do we head for Padjelantaleden towards Tuottar.
We have been here several times before, it is today mainly a transportation. We leave the beautiful view of Virihaure behind us, in front of us are smooth hills with the mountains of Sarek at the horizon. The weather is rather good, the path is easy to walk. We meet several hikers, some are tired and wonder how far away Staloluokta is, others run away without saying hello. Efter the lake Gieddávrre is the path through osier and along a stream. Once we camped here in an open place in the osier, this time we can not find any opening. We pass the bridge over Bållávrjåhkå, and walk back along the other side of the stream. Here we find a good place. Others have found it as well, we find sanitary towels and underpants. The wind increase in strength and it gets cloudy.
Day3: 16 August, Bållávrjåhkå - Tjågnårisskajdde, 18 km
The night is windy, and the day start with rain. When we leave at half past ten is the rainsuit a must. There are many showers during the day. It is a flat hilly countryside, where Kierkevare block the view towards south. It is slightly uphill. We make a pause inbetween two showers. We meet hikers that wonder if we want to get a lift. Do we already look that tired? We decline politely, we are going in the other direction we say. Thanks anyway. The lunch is spent on a small hill with a far reaching view. In the west are darkblue clouds. The sun shine on us for a short moment, then the rain start again.
The winding path takes lead us over and between the hills. The headwind make the rain whip the face. The path is easy to walk and follow, at wet places are planks. Lemmings run in and out beneath the planks. One must be careful to not step on the sweet little animals. Before the Tuottarcabins are two broad but easy fordable places. We ford the first, at the second at the cabins do we leave the path and follow the ravine of the brook from the lake Duottarjávrre. We continue along the west side of the lake. Here it is easy to walk; meadows, whale shaped rocks, and beaches. The only disturbing thing are the large number of rain showers. At the northwestern part of the lake do we turn east, too much since we soon in the haze can see the northeastern part of the lake. The aim was to reach the lake at Oarjep Rissávárre. It is not easy to navigate here in the haze. We take a shortcut and walk up to 1000 meter to reach the valley with the lake without name south of Oarjep Rissávárre. The uphill slope and the rain that whip us is tiring.
We do not walk along the shore of the lake but continue on the slope with lake further down to the left. The ground is almost flat and it is a comfortable walk to where the way down to Tjågnårisskajdde begin. The descent is hilly and at some places rather steep. Since one is getting tired may it feel steeper than it is. The nice view is a reward. An helicopter bounce at the hut at Tjågnårisjåhkå. Half past six are we on flat ground and we can settle on a meadow near a small brook. After one hour do the rain cease and the weather is clearing up. It feels good.
Day4: 17 August, Tjågnårisskajdde - Miellädno, 7 km
I waken with a sore throat. My friend as well. Will it be as in 2004 with several days of high fever? With this misgiving do we decide to change plans and make a short walk to the bridge over Miellädno and await the state of health until tomorrow. During breakfast do we have pleasant company of a flock of reindeers who has their breakfast on the meadow of our tent.
The body protest, but the brain convince it to walk. To the brook Rissájåhkå is it hilly and several marshes. The sky is cloudy but the rain is not at home today. Rissájåhkå split in several streams, we search for a place where it is broadest and where our boots are enough to cross. We have to slant across it. We continue on the slope of Nuortap Rissávárre, where we have a good view towards Álggajávrre and Álggavágge. Two persons use the rowing-boat to cross the lake at the outlet of Miellädno. Since there are only two boats, do they have to make three crossings. They run aground, after some struggle do they finally manage.
We continue downstream of Miellädno. Here as well is it hilly, several marshes to pass, and with low osier. Normally is this no problem, but the body claim that it do not feel well. Half past two are we at the bridge. It is scantilly repaired, it has been partly destroyed for many years. On the bridge is a sign, it warns that one may not use the bridge, this is a workplace! Some rubbish remnants of the bridge lay on the ground. Hundred meters downstream from the bridge do we stay for the night. Four persons defy the sign on the bridge and use the bridge. They survive.
REST! Sore throat and ill-health disturb. The sun make a visit, the sun's nice and hot.
Day5: 18 August, Miellädno - Låddejåhkå, 11 km
The throat and cold are worse today, but my body temperature is not much more than normal. Despite this rather good condition do we not dare to get into the heart of Sarek in this condition. We head instead for Padjelantaleden at Låddejåhkå. We use the bridge to get to the other side of Miellädno. The bridge feel unsteady, but that has it always done. After the bridge do we follow downstream of Miellädno. We pass through many thickets with osier, marshes, here and there is a heath. We try to follow the reindeer paths through the osier. It is wet, many deep brooks are hidden in the thicket. They are narrow and easy to jump over, the problem is to see them. Now and then do a shower pass by. As we approach where Miellädno make ninety degree turn do the osier disappear. The river has made steep banks in the hilly landscape.
The brook Alep Násasjågåsj from Násasvágge divide in two, we easily cross the first one after the split. We follow the second one until it turn towards Miellädno, where we can get over it without problems. Small frogs, lemmings, and mice run away as we approach. We walk between Miellädno and a large marsh. The brook, more correctly is it a pool, from the marsh is an obstacle, it is wide and deep. The bottom is muddy, and one sink deep into it. We desist from fording and follow it to Miellädno where the bottom is stony and it is shallow.
To the lake Máhttoajvejávrásj are heaths. We walk south of the lake, the brook is not a problem. After the lake do we turn north towards Låddejåhkå. There are many marshes, as we approach Låddejåhkå is there more and more of osier, and it is wet. The clouds hang on heavily on Máhttoajvve. On the slope of Máhttoajvve towards Låddejåhkå is the oiser large and abundant. My friend propose to stay at an opening near a brook, but I propose to find a place at Låddejåhkå. We fight our way through the osier down to the stream. We arrive at a very nice waterfall. We contine downstream without seeing any place to stay. Luckily for me do we finally arrive at an opening good enough.
The health is not the best, I feel tired. According to my friend do we old men need two weeks for getting sick, be sick, get healthy, and have time to walk the planned seven day tour. The evening is wonderful, the sun make a visit. It is very welcome.
Day6: 19 August, Låddejåhkå - Vuojatädno, 14 km
We had been looking forward to a comfortable day along Låddejåhkå. It turns out to be a rather tough morning with dwarf birch, lofty osier, marshes, and brooks hidden by the osier. Where it is possbile do we walk in the jåhk, it is easier. The worst is the lack of wind, millions of small black flies surround us. They do not bite, but they are very irritating. We pass a nice rapid, but it forces us into the bush. Here we give up the water and walk uphill with the aim of getting enough high up to avoid the worst. It is better but still rather tough, the flies follow us step by step. All of this is an interesting experience, and the vegetation and landscape makes up a beautiful scenery , but it is tiring to walk in. OUCH!, it feels as if a knife cut my left thigh. I shake the leg. After a few minutes do the pain disappear and I can walk again, but the worry is that my injury is back again.
As we approach Padjelantaleden do the osier give up and it is easier to walk. At the bridge over Låddejåhkå is a mighty rapid. Small stones that the water has made to rotate has carved holes into the rock, a fascinating piece of art. A brook is used as fridge for beer. At the cabin do we have lunch. A weak wind keep the black flies away. A quite little girl pass together with a nice dog. The cabin host come as well, he his painting the cabin. He say that the season has not been so good. Maybe hiking is not that popular any longer.
We continue on Padjelanteden towards Kisuris. At the beginning is it a steep uphill slope. The rain follow us, and the view of the lakes is hidden in the haze. The brook Vierttjajågåsj is broad but easy to walk over, but it looks as if it can be difficult when there is much more water than today. Lemmings escape in between the planks on the path when we pass. A woman walk slowly, carefully avoiding to step on and hurt the animals. A grasshopper painted as a bee jump away.
It flattens, the rain cease and the haze disappear. The ravishing view of Vastenjávrre appear. The path is easy to follow and walk, we can soon se Vuojatädno. The osier earlier today, my bad leg, and the infection makes me feel tired. We put our tent at a brook, with a quiescent view of the lakes. I wash myself, including the hair (what is left of it), and use the sleeping bag as a hair-drier. Half past eight do the rain return. Today we have passed a fox burrow, it looked as if it has been recently used. We hope that there are many new arctic foxes.
Day7: 20 August, Vuojatädno - Vuojatädno, 0 km
My friend propose a day of rest. We do always try to have a day of rest, and my health and leg agree. We rest. During the day is it cloudy and grey, with showers as the only visitors. I make a short excursion high up on the slope of Loadásj to look for flowers. I do not find much, a Melancholy thistle. I find much of blueberries, this we have found almost every day, and we have eaten them greedily. There is of course osier, and a creeping juniper with berries. Reindeers graze, one of them limp with the right hind leg. It looks very problematic, poor animal. It struggle to keep together with the others when they disappear behind a crest. There is a wind strong enough to keep the black flies away. In the evening does it clear up and it get chilly. The view towards the lakes is simply delightful.
Day8: 21 August, Vuojatädno - Sjpietjavjåhkå, 17 km
The night is cold. When I have to leave the tent at two is there ice on the tent. When I wake up again in the morning is it warm and sunshine. We hurry away and walk up on Gisuris. On the summit is a large military camp, where soldiers are marching between the buildings. My friend exclaim: "Who has built this here??", and run bouncing between houses and soldiers. I limp behind. We find a way out, and enter a luxuriant park. At the exit is the railway station in Åstorp, and we take the train back home. I wake up, rub the dream from my brain, and look outside the tent. It is cloudy but warm.
We walk up the slope of Loadásj. We meet osier, marshes, and lot's of black flies. There is no wind that keeps these irritating creatures on the ground. At a few exposed places is a weak wind, here we take our breaks. On the plateau between Loadásj and Njierek are some marshes, but in general is it easy to walk. An herd of reindeers pass us. We have now got sunshine, but we have still no wind. We walk towards the hill Njierek where we try to get some wind by walking high up on the slope. We are partly successful. On the slope are nice grassy meadows, and an exceptional view, below us is the lake Njierekjávrre, at the horizon the fjäll in Guohpeprvágge. Towards east is Gisuris, without any visible military camp. It looks easy to walk up on it, but we do not have time for that now.
We turn north and follow the east slope av Njierik. In the shallow valley between Njierik and Sjpietjav is a small lake, Elliboarkajávrásj. Behind Sjpietjav is Áhkká with cloudless peaks. On the ground flower the beuatiful Rock Speedwel. We leave our rucksacks and walk up on a hill to get the view west towards the lake Sállohávrre and behind it Norway. I sit down to change film in my camera. SHIT! I open the camera without rolling back the film. Yes, I'm old fashioned with a twenty your old analogue camera (OM40). "Buy a digital camera, it never happens with it" my friend say, who has bought such a modern invention. I quickly close the camera, hoping that some pictures has survived. The view is admirable.
We find the path that lead to the Kisuris cabin. The path offer a magnificient view towards Guvtjávrre och Áhkká. The path pass osier, marshes, heaths, and as we approach the cabin sparse mountain birch forest. Before the cabin do the path split, we happens to take one that goes to the cabin, but the is perhaps all of them doing. At the cabin is a group of people, and a much bigger group of black flies. Some of them make us company on the Padjelantatrail through the birch forest on small ridges to the bridge over Sjpietjavjåhkå. In a glade on the other side of the jåhk do we settle for the night. A man wash himself in the jåhk, he seems unaware of all the flies. Together with millions of these animals do I take a bath. Mass murder! Many of them that had found a place on my body drown. It is a refreshing dip. It is the first time, I made my first mountain walking tour in 1981, I have met these creatures. In the evening is it colder, they get lazy and we can be outside together with a beautiful sunset.
Day9: 22 August, Sjpietjavjåhkå - Ritsem, 12 km
We have set the alarm at seven, but we are already awake. We have to be at Änonjalme before 14.40 when the boat leave. We have a quick breakfast, a few sandwiches is enough, in order to leave early and have no rush. The black flies do something else, or they are lazy since the air is colder today. We walk on the path through the birch forest to the bridge over Sjnjuftjudisjåhkå. After the bridge is a short steep slope. It is varied birch forest, heaths, and marshes. I can not remember from previous years that I have seen so much water in the marshes as this year. We have several breaks to eat blueberries. We have a discussion about blueberries with a couple, they like the dark blue berries better than the light blue berries that one find here.
We meet two older gentlemen. They feel the age, they walk shorter and shorter distances for each year, and the weight of the rucksack get less. We have walked this part many times, but one is still fascinated by the streaming Vuojatädno. A man stain the long bridge over the river. The path to the Akkacabin has got planks, but is still partly lumpy. At the Akkacabin do we talk with a man who has walked Padjelantaleden from Staloluokta via Vaisaluokta. Just before one do we arrive at the café in Änonjalme.
We eat smoked fish, "glödkaka", cheese, and cloudberry preserve. Glödkaka is a thin bread, a direct translation in english is ember bread, meaning that it should be made over ember. The fish is delicious. The man from the Akkacabin and the two gentlemen we met earlier enter. The woman who runs the café tell us the black flies arrived with the rain 10th of August. Everybody complain about their existance. The boat approach, the woman inform us that it follows where the river was before the hydro power station created the lake. This is where the regulated lake is as deepest. It costs 130 SEK for members of the tourist federation. At Ritsem mountain station do we get a double room for 295 SEK per person. It is almost empty of people.
I sit in the kitchen writing my diary when a young man start to talk with me. He is from Netherlands and has walked alone in Sarek. He ask me if it is me who has a website about Sarek, and show me a printout of my diary of my walking tour of 1982. He used the diary as a guide for part of his walk. I get very flattered and honoured that he has read and used my diary. I do also get very surprised that he could recognise me. He has as everybody else a digital camera, soon it is only me who use an analogue thing. His pictures can be found here>>>
Day10: 23 August, Ritsem - Home, km
As usual is the jurney home rather boring. The jurney from home is exciting, since one has all expections to look forward to. Now it is back home to the normal. There is a strong wind, and the morning boat to Änonjalme has to wait for the wind to lull. Our bus should depart 10.30, but it waits for the boat to return. In the meantime do I talk with Einstein outside the small shop, it is an intelligent dog. A few minutes late do the bus meet the boat in the harbour, but there are no passengers to pick up. There is a break of 20 minutes at Stora Sjöfallet, long enough for a coffee or to stretch one's leg. Despite the late departure and the roadwork are we in time to Gällivare, 14.00.
Though I had doubts that we should manage in the short time we have book a taxi, leave the luggage in the tourist information (25 SEK), eat lunch at the china restaurant, buy fruits in Domus, and have a talk with one of the hikers we met yesterday. We complain about that one can not buy tickets at the railway station by human service. He had problems in getting a ticket for the train south tonight. At three do we take our booked taxi to the airport. At the airport do one still get human service when checking in.
The lift off is at 16 as secheduled. The flight to Arlanda is comfortable, the plane is not full. At Arlanda do we again have to fetch the luggage and check it in again for Sturup, Malmö airport. We have plenty of time and try to get an earlier flight, "It will cost 1750SEK/person!", "No thank you". The check in machine spit out the tags and boarding card. I do not see how to manage the tags. My friend must help me with them, else I will destroy them in anger. Most people are sitting talking loudly in mobile telephones, or/and with a laptop in the knee. Do they work, surf on the web, or what? In former times one had time to think, reading, but now one always must be connected to somebody or something, reachable. In the new age things turn around faster. In the airplane do my neighbour spread with body and laptop. We land at the scheduled time.
At the parcing place outside the airport lie a lifeless man, he is already taken care off by the airport nursing staff. My friend drive me home, though it is a detour. When I put the key in the keyhole at eleven, is there a miaow from the cat flap. A happy cat welcome me when I open the door. During the night she wake me several times, "you are really at home".
Epilogue: , - , km
In the morning the day after do I cycle downtown with my destroyed film to develop it, I will get it back in an hour. While I wait do have a cappuccino at my favourite café, and I finish my hiking diary. I can not avoid to eavesdrop a couple, they talk very loudly such that everybody can listen. They discuss a friend who was a sales manager in southeast Asia, and earned lot's of money. Recently did he change to a similar job in Europe, and earned even more money. After six months he got another job, where he earned an enormous amount of money. For a moment do I consider to become a communist.
I finish my cappuccino and diary, and fetch my film. Only six pictures are lost. The emulsion is so thick that light did not penetrate deep into the rolled film.
A few days later do I pass one of the photo shops in town. They advertise a digital system camera, one get 800 SEK in cash back, the price is within my budget, the camera has good reviews, and it is my birthday. Spontaneously do I enter the shop and buy it. Now am I as well a digital photographer. I inaugurate the camera with excursions in Skåne, I have a website about Skåne >>>
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