We have in advance booked transport from the Sitojaure cabins to Rinim
at three in the afternoon. So when we wake up at nine are we already in
a hurry, since we still have a long walk to Sitojaure. Though we dislike
to walk in rain, is that what we have to do. It is not a heavy rain, but
the rain suit is a must. We had put up our tent a few kilometers before
the shelter in the valley, and it does not take us long to get there. The
shelter is a small house with two barrack beds and an iron stove. The shelter
is placed where the jåkk is down in a valley in the valley. The track
continue on the edge down to the valley where the jåkk find the way
through osier. One pass a few small ridges and some small lakes. The sun
become visible, and we can take off the rain suits. From a shallow mini
valley do we get a first sight of Sarek, still far away. After passing
the next hill can we in the southeast see down on the connected lakes Kaskajaure
and Kåbtåjaure, and the low land further away. On the slope
down to the lake, and before reaching the birch forest, do we meet five
reindeers. They run up on a hill, where they show their impressive siluettes,
before they disappear into Autsutjvagge. The remaining part down to the
cabins at Sitojaure is through a birch forest. There are two cabins, one
close to the water and one further up in the forest, not far away is a
Same village. The cabin at the lake looks new. The cabin host tell us that
the previous one was last year destroyed by a fire. At three do our boat
arrive, with six frozen passengers. We dress up in our rain suits, and
leave in a strong contrary wind. The lake is shallow, and the wind creates
disturbing waves. It feels in the body when the boat smash into the waves.
The driver suddenly stop the boat, pointing, look an eagle on the shore!
To us it more looks like a stone. We continue, trying to find the way with
least waves. Dark clouds have appeared on the sky, and the rain start.
When the boat hits the waves do we get a shower of cold water. We are happy
we took on the rain suits.
After
more than an hour, normal time is half an hour, do we land at Rinim. Rinim
is in lee behind the mountains and in the forest, so here is no wind. This
is the reason why the same family has built their house here. Our plan
is to walk north of Äpar, and we ask our driver about where to ford
Lulep Pastajåkkå. Nowhere, I do not want to find you in my
fishing nets, he answer. There is abnormally much water these days, it
is dangerous, and better not to try it. We thank him, pay the 250 SEK for
the boat trip, and walk up through the birch forest. We will decide what
to do when reaching the jåkk. While we talk, a few more hikers arrive
from direction of Pastavagge, and wants to be transported to Sitojaure
cabins, but he hesitates of making another tour today. It is cold and windy
out there, he needs at least cofffee to get warm again.. We leave them
and walk up through the narrow band of birch forest. When getting above
the forest, doone pass between the lone hill Namatis, and the steep slope
of Takartjåkkå, the peak is deeply hidden in the clouds. In
front of us is the small opening into Pastavagge, the view is impressive.
It is windy and a few showers pass by, and it temporarily hide the view.
There are no problems to walk here, and we reach Pastajåkkå
after a few hours. We find the stone where we stayed 1986, here we put
our tent again. When looking at the jåkk, do we find that it is a
wise decision not to ford it, but to walk through Pastavagge instead. It
rains slightly and the wind has increased further. We start to get worried
and support the tent with heavy stones, and lie down wondering what will
come.
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