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The lapps maintain the boat traffic on the lake, to Kungsleden on the
other side, or to Rinim in the northwest, for those that aim for Pastavagge.
From Rinim to the hut do one need to make an agreement in advance, or hope
that there is somebody in Rinim.We cross the lake to the other side in
the early morning. At the beginning is it flat and in a birch forest, after
a few kilometers do the slope of Njunjes begin. The slope feels steep.
Muscles and mind have not yet adopted to nature. Njunjes is a flat, and
today a windy plateau, with nothing for the eye until the descent
to Aktse. Here is a view that brings you far away. A track leads up to
Skierfe(1179), from which there is one of the most famous views in Sweden.
Skierfe is not high in meters, but the difference down to the lake below
is 650m. Half of it is a vertical wall. During the day has it become cloudy,
and now the rain start to fall. Our plan to visit Skierfe is postponed
into the unknown future (=1986). The rain converts the track down to Aktse
into a small brook.
The track lead down through a birch and spruce forest. Aktse
is a place that is inhabited all year by a few families.They maintain among
other things the tourist traffic on the lake Laitaure. Aktse means nine,
nine bears were killed here. That is what the story tell. This is the entrance
to Rapadalen. Skierfe rise north of the valley, with its vertical precipice.
In the middle is the 'bump' Nammatj. In the south is Tjakkeli almost as
steep as Skierfe, but more difficult to walk up on. Here are also a few
huts for the tourists. There are several beautiful meadows, nowadays specially
preserved. We are here to late in the summer to see all the flowers. The
rain makes us to use the hut for the night, though it temporarily
makes a pause during the evening. The hut is warm and welcomes us. Three
middle aged men have already made up the fire. With a 'boyish' look in
there eyes do the point out for us how funny the name Kukkesvagge (a valley
in the north) is. The first three characters form a dirty swedish word
for the male 'thing'. The rain keeps falling, the night takes over. Night
but not dark, twilight.
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