I hate to litter. I have lost my toothpaste! I search for it all places I could think of where I have had it, at the tent, beach, and all unthinkable places. I find it in our trash. Why have I put it there? This is the coldest day so far, "only" ten degrees, it is cloudy and a strong contrary wind. We choose to walk on the trail to Staloluokta, a distance of 21 km. The trail pass a landscape rich in hills and small lakes. Soon do we reach the huts at Tuoddar. After the huts are two broad but shallow brooks to ford. There are terribles stories about these places (told to us by a former host at the huts), why is difficult to understand today. In the north is a landscape with many hills, in the south is the massive of Kierkevare. The nightcap is still on. Since we walk on a trail do we meet other hikers, e.g. a couple which is going for fishing. At the lake Ieltijavrasj do we pass the highest point, about 900 meters above the sea level. My back do not feel well today, and after 10 kilometers does it give up. The rest is torture, and we have to make many breaks. A 20 minute long shower pass by. The bridge over Bållavrjåhkkå looks new, a sign say that only one person at a time shoulde be on the bridge at the same time. The bridge is placed where the brook fiercefully run between rocks. After tre bridge do the trail enter osier and dwarfbirches. We have a good view of the brooks and lakes in the north. On the hill before Stalo do one have to sit and enjoy the view of  Luoppal and Viriahuare. The sun makes a visit and improves the view. We follow the trail into the birch forest, where it split. We follow a trail that takes us to the shore of Luoppal. We remember we walked here as well at our visit 1994/95. At five can we install us in one of the VIP-rooms (nb 7), it costs 200 SEK per person. The first thing we do is to walk to the "shoppen" and order smoked char. We wash ourselves in the washing room, afterwards is it time to fetch the fish. We prepare and it eat in the kitchen, where three ladies discuss their many hiking trips, e.g. alone through Sarek. Tough ladies. We not so tough men retreat to our VIP-room, and the ladies walk to their tents. In the hut is electrical light, powered by car batteries and the sun. What a luxury. In the other VIP-room was in 1994 a beautiful oil lamp. I look into the room, but the lamp is gone and replaced with an electrical lamp. The mobile has no contact.