5:40 bus to Jokkmokk. Studying the
churches. Buying a clock in a caravan of
women with breeding cat. Go in detail
through Ájtte mountain museum, interesting. Walk around the Lake
Talvatis on footpaths. Stay overnight at the hostel.
Yes, I wake before the alarm clock rings. I am well in time to the bus
stop at the church. The Norwegian lady is already there. Even the bus driver
has woken up in time. The bus serves as a school bus, this is why it is so
early morning. Children are picked up, the bus runs a few small detours into
the narrow roads to isolated houses, farms, small villages consisting of a
few houses. Nice to see more than mountains and main road.
In Jokkmokk, I leave my backpack on the bus station, the hostel opens
at five o'clock in the afternoon. Want a breakfast and go to the Conditori City
on Storgatan. My usual cafe in Jokkmokk. Eat a simple breakfast
consisting of ham
and cheese on French bread, with coffee and blackcurrant juice. Then I
go to the tourist office. Asking if I can have my backpack in there until 17,
but they close at lunchtime today. Ask if the inland railway is still
running, would like to take the train to Gällivare tomorrow, but it ended
the 30th August. I get a map of Jokkmokk.
With the map can I find the old church, originally from 1753 and which
burned 1972. It was rebuilt as a reconstruction of the original. A red painted
timber church with shingles, which is located in a pine-wooded site, with a
separate bell tower. The church is locked. Two men come and photograph the
church. Apparently popular. I continue to the
new church, constructed 1889. A large white wooden church on a
site with birches. In the park at Storgatan is a sculpture in bronze,
of a man who raft timber on a river.
On the pedestal is a relief of a governor from 1873 to 1885. On a
sign, it is told about the man who stood model for the raft. What a job
to raft timber, today's
comfortable man (ie me) could not manage it.
Passing the bus station to see if the backpack is still there. It is.
The Norwegian woman is waiting for
the bus to Murjek, and from there take the train to Narvik. Although the
season is over for trains on the inland railway
I go there. The rails are manufactured by
Krupp, "KRUPP 1936" it says on them. Nearby is a memorial inaugural
stone from 6/8 1937, in memory of the last completed section of the
Talking to a nice man with a dog. The man has lived in my hometown. Has
been a carpenter and is now craftsmen in wood, including making birds of wood
which are sold at the museum Ájtte. Also he has had problems with his
back, common problem, he got it during a mountain hiking. Not at all fun. He
recommends trying Suovas (lightly
smoked reindeer) on Ájtte as dinner. At the former railway
station building is
the clock an hour off, so trains must have ran as if it was winter time.
Talking about clocks, I need a clock. Ask at the bus station, "the
paper trade may have".
"Unfortunately, we do not sell clocks any longer". Hope for the
photo store, no. "Perhaps the Statoil petrol station?". No, not there
either, but they tell me that on the parking lot is a lady with a caravan that
has been on the market this weekend and sold watches. Knock on the door. A woman
opens up, a naked cat looks out. The cat is a breeding cat that she has
temporarily. He meow a lot, perhaps after cat girls? She, i.e. the woman,
sell watches. She runs a shop in Umeå and also drive around and
sell at markets. I have a nice chat, and selects an appropriate clock.
I fetch my backpack and goes to the hostel. In the garden sits a man and
relax with a brandy after several weeks of hiking. Leaving my backpack
on the veranda and goes to Ájtte museum for lunch. The man with the birds
so I'll take it. Expensive but good. Devote many hours to go through
the Museum, Mountain and Sámi
Museum. There is permanent exhibition called Sápmi - about the
people. Structured in place around a central location. How they lived,
culture, landscape, people. Can not be described, must be seen. Another
exhibition is mountain Information, for those who feel they need it for their hike.
I leave the museum for a visit to
Jokkmokk stone center, which is closed for today. The Alpine Botanical
Garden is closed for
the season. My new watch shows 16:00. Then I have time to walk the
of the lake Talvatis, and come to the hostel in time when it opens. The
man with the brandy is still there. We talk in the meantime we are enjoying
the blackcurrants from the
bushes at the hostel's backyard. The time is now five, I can check in.
Take a shower before dinner. In the cabin next door are a couple, they
seem to do more than to shower. Resting after eating, doze off, wake up
in time to go to bed.
Jokkmokk tourist information
The Inland railway
Inland railway - history
Klockshop - clock seller
Ájtte - Swedish Mountain and Sami Museum
STF hostel in Jokkmokk