30 August

I wake up late, half past six. It's raining outside. Eating my gruel breakfast, the rain turns into showers. Between the showers the sun comes out. Order smoked fish by the host. Pack my small backpack with rain gear, water, some food and my "mountain" candy.

Hiking past the church hut, then up the slope to Unna Titer. It's a good climb and a moderate slope. It blows a cool breeze. The view towards Virihaure is adorable. The lake is a marble in different colors. Passing a cairn and a mast, the mast is said to be for the police communications. Up here is a lot of polished rocks. In a sink is a small amount of water bodies. Interesting landscape, similar to its mate Stuor Titer next to it. Was there 1994. Go and look out over the furrowed valley Titervagge between the two Titer. Continue past a few lakes. Walking around completely unstructured.

I end up on a crest, I have to sit down and enjoy the view. Understand those who think Virihaure is Sweden's most beautiful lake. Strengthens me with blueberries. It is windy, with rain clouds threatening heavy over Kierkevare. It starts to rain slightly, on with the rain gear. Returning along the slope towards Virihaure. Provides me with blueberries on the way down to the cottage. Have blueberry soup (powder) for lunch. I have a few words with the company of three. The older have osteoarthritis in the knees, the man has recently taken the cecum. Therefore helicopter here and day trips. One must adapt to the condition one have.

Make a visit to the outhouse. When I was a small boy did we spend the summers with my grandparents in the country side. They also had an outhouse. These toilets are fascinating with its ecological approach. Today it separates urine and poo-poo. You have to sit right, and not throw toilet paper into the urine part. Of course, there is toilet paper in urine part. After poo-poo should one pour a cup of a powder over the outcome, to bind moisture and prevent odor.

After lunch I take a walk. Crossing the bridge to the tent site. There stands a lone tent. Follow the path that goes to Stalojåkkå's wide outlet in Virihaure. Follows  Stalojåkkå upstream on an easy walk heath. The jåkk narrows, in a bend the jåkk change from peaceful to a ferocious roar. From here I can see the jåkk towards Virihaure. Provides me with the abundance of blueberries. Continuing up the jåkk to a birch grove. My back aches, it starts to rain, on with the rain gear. I return back. I follow the water as best as possible, sometimes in the water. In the beach sand have somebody written something that look likes runes. At the hut am I welcomed by a happy Nalle. The host regret that there were no fish in the nets, so there is no fish for the evening.

The sauna at the lagoon is open. I decide to make a visit. I'm accompanied by a Dutchman. This is the first time I have a sauna bath in the mountains. Normally I am not fond of the sauna, but I feel for it today, the heat can be good for my sore back. In the building is a dressing room, inside this is a room where one can wash oneself, and the sauna itself. The fire that warms the sauna heats the water also, which you can shovel over yourself. I sit ten minutes in the heat. From the veranda goes one into the lagoon water for a bath. It is shallow but you can lie down and take a cold bath. Afterwards I wash myself with the warm water. Nice. On the floor are there traces of blood. Looking through my body after a wound, I find nothing. "It must be from you" I say to my companion, who washes away the blood.

As the fishing net was empty, I eat tuna with rice. I ask the hosts if they know about the protected flower Raggfingerört, it has its only locations somewhere here, among other places high on Jeknaffo. All they know is that there are many botanists coming here for some rare plants sake. Two girls in the dining room are eating big plates of dark berries. I ask them what it is and where they found them. They look with astonished eyes at me. "Blueberries, it is full of them out there". I feel stupid. The blueberries I have eaten here has been brighter, these are almost black. Maybe they eat crowberries, I think doubtful. When I make myself ready for the night I discover a large cut on my right heel. It was my blood in the sauna. I must have cut myself on a rock in the lagoon. It is a cloudy evening.


Path up on Unna Titer

View back






Water surface

Blue Virihaure





Outlet of Stalojåkkå





Bog Bilberry



Bridge at Staloluokta

Sauna house


Changing room



Lake Luoppal