Gruel breakfast in the self-household. Today is my plan to study the
remains of the silver work, from the 17th century, on the other
side of Kamajåkkå. Therefore, I am at the boat 9.30. I may
go on throughout the tour to the Padjelanta trail. Four elderly
gentlemen are set down at Prinskullen, they will make a day trip up on
it, and fetched again in the afternoon. Towards Padjelanta trail drives
the boatman a detour into the canal towards the lagoon. It's beautiful.
He tells about the delta, soon the strip between the the lagoon and
canal have been eroded away. The silver mine was in the mountains at
Silpatjåkkå, west of Tarraluoppal. There one extracted
silver galena, which where then transported in the winter by reindeers
to the silver work at Kvikkjokk. I was in the vicinity of
Silpatjåkkå 2003, unfortunately without making a visit. The
boat glides on the water, leaving soft waves behind it. It is both a
good guided tour and a nice boat trip. Passengers are exchanged at
Bobäcken. A company of young people is filling the boat. After
releasing them at the jetty in Kvikkjokk I am driven over to the other
side of Kamajåkkå.
He runs as close to the rapids in Kamajåkkå as possible for
me to get a proper view of it. The boat scrapes some rocks under the
water, the water level is low. I look down at the floor. He reassures
me that the boat has steel hull. It is not very visible, for the
ignorant, the remains of the silver work. I get a good guided tour by
the boatman, unfortunately I do not remember everything he shows and
tells. A hollow in which the cemetery was, a residual stone where
the priest stood and preached, including foundations after a cottage.
In 1991 when I was here, waiting for boat transport having gone through
Vallevagge, then I for the first time became aware of silver plant, but
I was not particularly interested. The boatman tells me that it will
soon been published a book by Tore Abrahamsson, "Dreams of Silver",
about the mine and silver work. That I will buy. He wonders if I'm
interested in art? Yes, I am. There is a woman coming, she has an
exhibition in the house at the parsonage. We agree to meet there at two
o'clock. Half past eleven I get a ride back to the other side, he leave
me at the "path" up to the mountain station. He only wants to have a
hundred SEK for the whole tour.
There used to be a sign that marks where the silver plant buildings
were on this side of jåkk. Looking for a moment along the
jåkk, but find nothing, not even something that may resemble some
of the residue. Returning to the path that takes me past the vicarage,
next to it is the house with art exhibition, I continue past the great
stone, the location of the pole, and the plate that Linnaeus was here.
Coming up at the old cottages East and West. 1982, I stayed in one of
them, today one of them is an enclosure for the goats.
I am at the exhibition at 14:00. The woman comes on a bike, it is she who
is the artist. A nice woman and beautiful paintings from the region and
different seasons, mostly watercolors. She also has oil on wood. I get
a lecture about tempera: linseed oil, whole eggs, and pigments. We talk
about other things than art also, in Kvikkjokk is there 17 year round
inhabitants. The vicarage can be rented for accommodation if you are a
larger party. There are some more coming in that are interested in her
paintings.
I return to my room, outside the door lies a heating pad and a note:
"Warm it in the microwave oven and put it on your back" it says. It is
from the hostess. I follow the instructions, it relieves a lot. Nice
that the hosts care about the health of their guests. In addition do I
do my back exercises given to me by my physiotherapist. Feels even
better. There is an orderly chaos at the station, many new people and
dogs has arrived.. My room (4) is one of the rooms that may have a dog
in. Two women with dog needs room. I agree to move to room 24, but the
women find it unnecessary for me to move. It ends with me staying in 4,
one of them can sleep together with the dog on the sofa. Everything
will be all right with a little of good will and the station is finally
coming to rest. We complain about our flaws, one of them have
osteoarthritis in the knees. They go to bed early, since they will take
the 5:40 bus to Jokkmokk.
Tomorrow I will arrange for the helicopter to Staloluokta, needs to get
out on the mountain, breathing mountain air.
Links
Sarek 1982
Sarek 1991
Sarek 2003
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