27 August

Gruel breakfast in the self-household. Today is my plan to study the remains of the silver work, from the 17th century,  on the other side of Kamajåkkå. Therefore, I am at the boat 9.30. I may go on throughout the tour to the Padjelanta trail. Four elderly gentlemen are set down at Prinskullen, they will make a day trip up on it, and fetched again in the afternoon. Towards Padjelanta trail drives the boatman a detour into the canal towards the lagoon. It's beautiful. He tells about the delta, soon the strip between the the lagoon and canal have been eroded away. The silver mine was in the mountains at Silpatjåkkå, west of Tarraluoppal. There one extracted silver galena, which where then transported in the winter by reindeers to the silver work at Kvikkjokk. I was in the vicinity of Silpatjåkkå 2003, unfortunately without making a visit. The boat glides on the water, leaving soft waves behind it. It is both a good guided tour and a nice boat trip. Passengers are exchanged at Bobäcken. A company of young people is filling the boat. After releasing them at the jetty in Kvikkjokk I am driven over to the other side of Kamajåkkå.

He runs as close to the rapids in Kamajåkkå as possible for me to get a proper view of it. The boat scrapes some rocks under the water, the water level is low. I look down at the floor. He reassures me that the boat has steel hull. It is not very visible, for the ignorant, the remains of the silver work. I get a good guided tour by the boatman, unfortunately I do not remember everything he shows and tells. A hollow  in which the cemetery was, a residual stone where the priest stood and preached, including foundations after a cottage. In 1991 when I was here, waiting for boat transport having gone through Vallevagge, then I for the first time became aware of silver plant, but I was not particularly interested. The boatman tells me that it will soon been published a book by Tore Abrahamsson, "Dreams of Silver", about the mine and silver work. That I will buy. He wonders if I'm interested in art? Yes, I am. There is a woman coming, she has an exhibition in the house at the parsonage. We agree to meet there at two o'clock. Half past eleven I get a ride back to the other side, he leave me at the "path" up to the mountain station. He only wants to have a hundred SEK for the whole tour.

There used to be a sign that marks where the silver plant buildings were on this side of jåkk. Looking for a moment along the jåkk, but find nothing, not even something that may resemble some of the residue. Returning to the path that takes me past the vicarage, next to it is the house with art exhibition, I continue past the great stone, the location of the pole, and the plate that Linnaeus was here. Coming up at the old cottages East and West. 1982, I stayed in one of them, today one of them is an enclosure for the goats.

I am at the exhibition at 14:00. The woman comes on a bike, it is she who is the artist. A nice woman and beautiful paintings from the region and different seasons, mostly watercolors. She also has oil on wood. I get a lecture about tempera: linseed oil, whole eggs, and pigments. We talk about other things than art also, in Kvikkjokk is there 17 year round inhabitants. The vicarage can be rented for accommodation if you are a larger party. There are some more coming in that are interested in her paintings.

I return to my room, outside the door lies a heating pad and a note: "Warm it in the microwave oven and put it on your back" it says. It is from the hostess. I follow the instructions, it relieves a lot. Nice that the hosts care about the health of their guests. In addition do I do my back exercises given to me by my physiotherapist. Feels even better. There is an orderly chaos at the station, many new people and dogs has arrived.. My room (4) is one of the rooms that may have a dog in. Two women with dog needs room. I agree to move to room 24, but the women find it unnecessary for me to move. It ends with me staying in 4, one of them can sleep together with the dog on the sofa. Everything will be all right with a little of good will and the station is finally coming to rest. We complain about our flaws, one of them have osteoarthritis in the knees. They go to bed early, since they will take the 5:40 bus to Jokkmokk.

Tomorrow I will arrange for the helicopter to Staloluokta, needs to get out on the mountain, breathing mountain air.

Sarek 1982
Sarek 1991
Sarek 2003













East and West

Art exhibition